On our last full day in Cleveland we had full itinerary planned, and the will to see it through. First was a little road trip west to Lakeview Park in Lorraine.
Lakeview Beach
It was a beautiful, cool morning with a bright blue and cloudless sky. We checked out the beach first, but our real reason for visiting was the rose garden.
Lakeview Rose Garden
It was a bit late in the season for optimal blooms and we learned that a storm came through a few days ago that really did a number on the flowers. Despite those factors, the garden was still impressive to stroll through. It has a concentric circle design with different beds for different varieties. Some of the volunteer garden crew were on-site for their weekly maintenance, including the head gardener. She enthusiastically answered all of our questions and provided us with a brief history of garden too. We continued strolling through the park to see a few more features and monuments before hopping back in the car.
On the drive back to Cleveland we made a planned stop at a Whole Foods store so I could pickup some personal care products only available in the U.S. Mission Accomplished!
Back at our place in Ohio City we had a quick lunch before getting the bikes ready for our day’s ride. The route we took was along the Lakefront Bikeway to Edgewater Park. After riding down to the waterfront and along the beach, the trail climbed back up a bluff to where the ‘Cleveland’ sign sits perched above the waterfront. Duncan nabbed a passerby who took a real interest in getting a good picture of us and the sign.
Edgewater Park
Swimming was on the agenda, and by this point in the day it was actually warm enough to inspire us to get in the lake. The water temperature was listed as being 72, so it was quite easy to wade in.
After our quick dip we were back on the bikes, heading east now, towards downtown. We just had to stop at Wendy Park for one last photo-op before we circled back to Ohio City.
Wendy Park
Back at the house, we had just enough time to get showered and changed before the second half of our itinerary – The Rock’n Roll Hall of Fame, dinner and a show!
The Rock’n Roll Hall of Fame
The atmosphere there is energetic to say the least, and we had to keep up a pretty brisk pace to make it through all 6 floors of exhibits. It was impressive and a little overwhelming at times, and we spent the last half hour before they closed at 5pm sitting in a theatre watching a video about Dick Clark and American Bandstand.
I forgot to mention that we parked the car by the Playhouse Theatre and walked down to the Hall of Fame – only a little over a mile away. Unfortunately we got turned around a couple of times and ended up walking in the wrong direction for a little over a mile before we got pointed in the right direction. Needless to say, our legs were getting tired and a good sit, watching a video, was very much welcome by this point. After the Rock’n Roll Hall of Fame closed we walked back up into downtown to a restaurant called Pizza 216 for dinner.
Pizza 216
Again, a nice sit-down was just what we needed while we refueled in anticipation of seeing SIX The Musical.
The walk from the restaurant to Playhouse Square wasn’t that far and by this point in the day, we knew where we were headed. The Playhouse Square area is denoted outside by America’s largest outdoor chandelier.
America’s largest outdoor chandelier
Entering through the walkway from the parking garage we followed the interior corridors past several other theaters that comprise Playhouse Square.
SIX at Connor Palace – Playhouse Square
The interiors at Playhouse Square are beautiful. There were a few empty seats near the back, but there was a lively buzz about the place before the lights were dimmed. The show was great and all of us had a good time cheering and clapping along throughout. We lingered in the theatre afterwards to let the crowds thin, and again in the parkade as the Autocad exodus ensued. The almost-full moon was rising over the city which was a nice way to finish our jam-packed day in Cleveland.
Day 8: Heading Home
Wednesday, August 30
Cloudy and cool with sprinkles of rain. 18C
We were all packed up and ready to go just before 9am. I did have one more early morning stroll where I documented some of the many, colourfully painted houses in the neighborhood of Ohio City. The place we were staying on is featured in the centre of the photos.
Ohio City Neighborhood
The drive to Kitchener took about 6 hours including a few breaks and the border crossing. After I was dropped off, the rest of the gang had another 2 hours drive through Toronto, and then Duncan had to go almost to Ottawa. At least we got to sit and rest our legs.
It was a really great trip despite being four of us instead of six. The weather went from scorching hot to refreshingly cool which ensured that we eventually got to wear our sweaters and pants. Its even easier to have fun cycling when the cycling infrastructure is so well developed. That’s what brought us to Ohio in the first – seeing all those green lines on Google maps with the bicycling layer turned on. It also helps that there are other really interesting things to do there. Our Airbnb accommodations were fabulous, and staying in residential areas seemed to set the tone in both Dayton and Cleveland. Being able to say hi to the neighbors, stopping to chat, or pet their dogs made us feel like we were part of the neighborhood. And to me, that’s how traveling should be. I have a feeling we’ll be back.
Today we drove to the Cuyahoga Valley National Park to do our ride. The trail is part of the Ohio to Erie Trail that goes from The Ohio River in Cincinnati to Lake Erie in Cleveland. This section of the trail follows the Cuyahoga River and the old Ohio & Erie Canal Towpath – which was constructed in the 1830s as a means to transport both passengers and goods. The towpath spanned 308 miles and had 152 locks.
The trail is in good shape and is paved in some sections and gravel dust in others. The river valley provides a lot of shade as well as shelter from the wind, and although we were riding upstream, the elevation change was barely noticeable.
There are all sorts of places to stop along the way and we took advantage of the amenities at Boston Mill. Bathrooms, water refills, and a general store with ice cream kept us in top form.
At Lock 29 in Peninsula we saw the Cuyahoga Valley Scenic Railroad Train pulling intothe station. Something we wanted to do was to take our bikes on the train, but it only operates from Wednesday through Sunday. The surprise appearance of the train today went unexplained. We didn’t see any passengers on board so perhaps it was a training run?
We stopped for a picnic lunch at Deep Lock Quarry and spread out our food on a bench beside the trail. After we ate, we took a short side trip up a trail to see the old quarry where a lot of the stone used to build the canals was quarried. Duncan had fun working the self-timer on his camera to capture our group photo at the quarry.
After lunch we turned around and pedalled back to the car at the Canal Exploration Center. We stopped at a roadside market stand to buy some corn and tomatoes before driving back into Cleveland. We had a nice meal, this time in the dining room of the infamously historic house that we are staying in.
Cloudy in the morning, then the sun came out. The heat wave is over! 24C
It was sad to be leaving Dayton, but we really enjoyed our time in the city. We slowly packed up over breakfast and were on the road just after 9am. Mercifully, the heat wave is over and it actually felt cool outside.
We had planned a couple of stops along the way to Cleveland, the first being at the Cabella’s just outside of Columbus. The hunters and fishers among us wanted to check it out, and it was perfect timing for a stop to stretch our legs.
Next was lunch at the Cracker Barrel just outside of Mansfield – another hour up the road. Most of us had never eaten there before and it was a real experience in American cuisine. The food was very good and the dining room was bustling. There is a gift shop at the main entrance with a ton of stuff on offer. Then it was back in the car for the last hour to Cleveland.
I knew that our place in Cleveland was going to be special, but I didn’t realize just how special until we arrived. We’ll be sharing more details of the house over the next couple of days.
We took a walk around the neighborhood to get a feel for it and it seems pretty lively in a relaxing way. This part of Cleveland is called Ohio City.
Another hot and humid day. Cloudy in the morning – thankfully. 32C
We’re getting the hang of navigating through the neighborhood.
We rode the Stillwater River Trail to Sinclair Park. On the trip back we stopped to look around at the Wegerzyn Gardens MetroPark.
On the way back to our place we saw big water jets shooting out if the river. Its as if someone saw us coming down the path because abruptly the fountains turned off, allowing us a relatively dry passage. We later learned that it is called the Five Rivers Fountain of Light, and they run the water for 10 minutes at the top each hour.
Before lunch we took a guided tour around the Dayton Aviation Heritage National Historic Park and the Wright Brother’s Bicycle Shop. After lunch we dropped Don and Duncan off at the U.S. Air Force Museum so they could finish looking around. Wendy and I went grocery shopping at Aldi and then picked the boys up at 5pm.
Another nice supper in our dining room.
Some of the sights from around the Wright Dunbar Historic Neighborhood where we are staying.
A short and sweet blog post today. Tonight is our last night in Dayton.
Cloudy with increasing sun throughout the day. Hot and humid in the morning, roasting in the afternoon. 32C
Today we got the early start we were looking for. The temperature was 26C overnight and when we unsealed the door in the morning, we were smothered by warm, moist Dayton air. Everybody got their breakfasts in order, sun screen applied, water bottles filled, and snacks packed.
Our route today was heading east along the Mad River Trail to the site where the Wright Brothers honed their skills on their first flyer – the Huffman Prairie Flying Field. Leaving our place, we navigated to the river and down to the trail along the bank pedaling through Dayton’s core. We are getting the hang of when to ride down at the water and when to climb the bank to the upper trail.
Eastwood MetroPark is about halfway, and we stopped there for a water break. We had the wind at our backs again today, and the shade and some passing clouds kept us from completely overheating. We had to climb a switchback up to the Huffman Dam and then there was a nice long downhill towards the flying field. Unfortunately, at the bottom of the hill there was a locked gate, and there was no easy way to get around (When my Mom and I were here in May the gate was wide open). Google said it would be a 7 mile detour to ride around the other way and that wasn’t happening We resigned ourselves to turning around and pedaling back up the hill to start our return trip. We were planning on driving out this way in the afternoon to see the U.S. Air Force Museum, so all was not lost.
After lunch, after cooling off and getting changed out of our sweaty cycling gear, we hopped into the car and typed Huffman Prairie Flying Field into google maps and let Mme Google do the rest. It was a long and convoluted route that culminated with us arriving at an Air Force Base check point, complete with armed guards, where it quickly became clear that we were in the wrong place. The young soldier was polite when he asked to see our credentials, before giving us what sounded like simple directions to get us back on track. Mme Google still wanted us to drive through the check point so we turned her off. We followed the soldiers directions – left at the lights and then another left or was it right? Finally we gave up, and set our sights for the Air Force Museum. Then, out of the blue, we saw a sign for the Huffman Prairie Flying Field! We followed along and eventually made our way to the damn Flying Field. We parked the car and wandered around in the blazing heat reading informational signs, trying to imagine these two brothers, over a hundred years ago, determined to defy gravity. It really was quite interesting, this place being the birthplace of flight as we know it. Getting to the Museum was much easier by comparison.
The U.S Air Force Museum is a big looking place consisting of several huge hangars, and we were looking forward to wandering around there in the lovely air conditioning. Once inside, the enormity of the place became apparent. Giant hangars just filled with hundreds of planes with a generally chronological approach to its layout. We had over 2 hours to spend before it closed at 5pm and we barely made it through. Towards the end we weren’t reading anything, we were just trying to get a look in each of the hangars. We hung on to the last minute, touring J.F.K’s Air Force One, a space shuttle, and a troop carrier. Like all great museums, you could spend weeks there absorbing all of the information layed out throughout the exhibits. It was a great way to spend the afternoon.
Tonight was our night to eat out and Don picked the Spaghetti Warehouse downtown on Fifth Street. All of us were looking forward to the meal and we previewed the menu during cocktail hour back at our place. It was just a short drive to get there and there was free parking after 6pm. The food was excellent and everybody left satisfied.
To stretch our legs and settle our stomachs we took a stroll around the downtown. We followed the sounds of live music to the Levitt Pavillion where a 3 piece band was rocking out some blues. We saw an unconventionally decorated truck adorned in bric-a-brac. It had a sign declaring ‘free books’ with a few boxes laid out on the sidewalk. We rooted around while the music played and people milled in the park. It was a nice way to spend our Friday evening. We’re still missing our friends who couldn’t make the trip. They would’ve had a great time too!
Cool with rain in the morning, getting ridiculously hotter in the afternoon sun. 20C – 34C
I got picked up in Kitchener by Duncan and my parents – Don and Wendy – and then we drove west for the Ambassador Bridge at Windsor/Detroit. It took us most of the day to get down to Dayton because we stopped a few times to rest, and for lunch, gas, and also in a place called Lima to pick up some groceries. The store there was underwhelming, but we found enough food to tide us over and to have supper when we arrived at our place.
Our B&B is amazing! Lots of space – originally there were to be 6 of us on the trip – and it is nicely appointed too. It also has central air conditioning which is a plus because there is a bit of a heat-dome enveloping the area for the 4 days we’ll be here. It is possibly going to be too hot to ride, but we are working on a plan.
After unpacking, settling in an putting together a quick supper of store-bought pulled pork and potato salad, Wendy and I took a stroll through the neighborhood. The real reason for our walk was to visit another grocery store to see if we could improve upon the meager rations we picked-up in Lima. This store was also underwhelming, but in an upscale way. We did find a few things including coconut cake for our dessert, but we are really missing visiting a true supermarket. Perhaps tomorrow. On our walk back we came across the 1905 Wright Flyer III Sculpture. For the last part of the evening we brainstormed different scenarios for what we might do in the morning.
Day 2: Dayton – Great Miami River Trail 40km
Thursday, August 24
Morning rain, clearing and scortchy in the afternoon. 34C
We had agreed to get up early and go for our ride before the heat became too oppressive, but there was a thunderstorm happening when we woke up. Each of us weighed in with our own analysis of the forecast, but alas, it was still raining. Instead of riding, we decided to drive to a legitimate grocery store to stock up on more supplies and to wait out the weather. We found a Kroeger store a few miles away and spent some time there loading up our cart with fresh fruit, veggies, drinks, snacks, the makings for sandwiches and tonight supper – ribs and baked beans. We also stocked up on some special salad dressings that I’ll be importing into Canada since they aren’t available there.
By the time we got back to our place the weather was looking good. Still faced with and impending heat wave, we needed to get our ride in quickly, before it got too hot out. So we whipped up some ham and cheese sandwiches and filled our water bottles which were already half full and frozen with ice.
From our place in the Wright Dunbar neighborhood we are close to all the bike trails along the river. Today we rode the Great Miami River Trail north to Taylorsville Metro Park. The wind was at our backs and there was plenty of shade in the wooded areas along the river.
We made our way through several different MetroParks along the way including Deeds Point, Island and Triangle. We stopped for lunch in Taylorsville Park and ate our sandwiches. The weather was getting warmer now that the sun was out, and when we started to head back we realized that when we had been riding north we had had the wind at our backs. On the return trip the wind felt nice blowing against us, but also made us work a little harder. We were thankful to arrive back to our climate-controlled villa for cold drinks and cold showers.
After dinner we went out for a walk and it was still 30C and humid. We walked slowly to avoid breaking a sweat, and ended up walking a lot further than any of us had planned to. We crossed the Peace Bridge and took in the various historical plaques detailing it’s significance. Underneath the bridge are more commemorations featuring quotes from Martin Luther King Jr and Paul Laurence Dunbar. As the sun sank behind the far bank, the colour-shifting lights came on along several of the bridges. Slowly we made our way back, eager to experience our air conditioning.
We had a long drive planned today so we checked-out with our oatmeal and bid adieu to Pittsburgh. Heading North on the I-79 we were looking forward to having breakfast at a nice rest stop. As we got hungrier and no signs mentioned upcoming rest stops, we opted to get off the highway at the next exit. As it turns out there was a State Park a mile down the road, so we went there in search of a shady bench and some bathrooms.
Unbeknownst to us, Moraine State Park has an incredible 7 mile paved bike path. The universe was speaking to us and apparently, we were listening. After we ate, we got the bikes ready and started off on the trail. Not anything like a rail trail, this path twists and turns, both up and down, as it skirts the shoreline of Lake Arthur. There is a bike rental operation there and the place was busy. The first few minutes of the ride were spent skillfully overtaking Sunday riders and family groups who looked like they hadn’t been on bikes in years. After a few delicate maneuvers, like passing before blind corners, we found our own space and we could really start to ride.
Photos don’t do it justice
The long straight stretches typical of rail trails are great for contemplation, conversation and scanning the surroundings. It’s easy to maintain a set pace and pedaling becomes automatic. The trail at Morraine State Park was nothing like that. It was more like a toned down rollercoaster. It seemed like each and every turn was preceeded by a quick climb or a curving descent. We were switching gears like mad to keep up our momentum and communication was limited to yes or no questions shouted over-the-shoulder. When we did catch up to one another we both had wide-eyed smiles.
The ride back was a little more restrained and we could anticipate a couple of the hardest corners. It’s a good thing that there were so many other people out riding and walking, otherwise the temptation to really let loose might have been too much. We were so lucky to have stumbled across this park. Considering we were just looking for a nice spot to eat our oatmeal, I almost feel a little foolish for not having had this on our must-ride list. Like I said, the universe was talking, and we were listening.
When we continued our drive north on the highway, we did end up seeing signs for rest stops, and we did stop at one for lunch. We sat at a picnic table in the shade beside a luscious stand of trees. Later in the day we ended up in Erie, Pennsylvania and did some shopping before driving another hour east to Fredonia and Dunkirk on Lake Erie. We are spending the night there – the last of our trip – and tomorrow we will be crossing back into Canada.
Last night we decided to drive back via Pittsburgh instead of Cleveland and we booked an online special where you get a room at one of 3 hotels, but you don’t find out which one until you pay for it. Once we knew our final destination, we plotted our course, and in the morning we said farewell to Xenia.
I have detailed my admiration of American rest stops before, but I must reiterate how brilliant they are in their simplicity: a place to park, bathrooms-a-plenty, green space with trees and shade, picnic tables, bbqs, vending machines and a walking trail. What they don’t have – or need – is gas stations and fast food restaurants. We stopped at 2 of them today, primarily to use the rest room, but on both occasions we took a stroll around the grounds to stretch our legs. At one in Pennsylvania we had a picnic lunch and were summarily assaulted by country flies.
It took us most of the day to get to Pittsburgh. I drove and my Mom navigated – using a selection of maps. When we got close to the city our paper maps were lacking the detail we needed, so we enlisted the services of Madame Google. The topography of the Pittsburgh area is incredible. There are so many hills, valleys and trees that you can’t really tell where you are in relation to anything else. All we had was the serene and dispassionate voice of Mme G to lead us through the twisting road network of the city.
In the area that we were, all the roads look the same. They either follow the bottom of a valley between tree covered hills or they snake up one side of said hills and down the other. The roads and highways look very similar, so it’s hard to tell if you should be going 35 or 70, until you come to your turn and then chances are it’s too late. We did find the hotel and we checked-in and unloaded. Then we selected our next destination – Aldi and Giant Eagle grocery stores. Mme G worked her magic again and we faithfully obeyed. We drove up and up and up, and down and down and down half a dozen major hills to get to the store. It was exhausting, and we were driving in a car!
After dinner we went out too see some of the city. We started at the Grandview Overlook to get some perspective. Once you get up out of the valleys you can really see the shape of the river valleys. In Pittsburgh, the Allegheny River meets the Monongahela River, and together, they form the Ohio River. From the overlook we also saw 2 deer grazing through the neighborhood.
From there we drove down to Point State Park – the confluence of the rivers – to take a look around. The open space around the rivers felt refreshing after the closeness of being cloistered in the hills. We spent over an hour wandering around the park. We walked along the Allegheny and the Monongahela.
We walked under some of the bridges.
And we spent some time by the reflecting pool.
When we got back to the car we had another round of fun with Mme G leading the way. I kept missing her turn suggestions and she kept on suggesting new ones. We got a good tour of the city and laughed our way back to the hotel.
Sunny and warm. Light cloud building in the afternoon. NE wind. 26C
We had a busy day of riding planned and got an early start by taking our breakfast on the road (trail).
The most important meal
Leaving Xenia on the Ohio to Erie Trail (OTET), a.k.a Bikeway #1, we were traveling northeast towards Columbus into a headwind. The trees on either side of the trail provided some protection from the strong breeze but we could feel our speed drop in the more open sections. We rode over 10km before pulling over at the side of the trail to eat our oatmeal. It was cool in the shade and getting warm in the sun, so we had some of each at the spot where we stopped.
The trip to Cedarville and back was the quintessential ride on a rail trail. Long straight stretches, bridges, tunnels, forests, fields, towns, crossroads and critters. One of the best things about the ride was getting to turn around and ride back with the wind at our backs. Uphill sections became downhill ones and vice versa. Even the scenery is surprisingly different coming from the opposite direction. We arrived back at the Xenia Station Bike Hub feeling more energized than when we left.
Taking Bikeway #4 – a.k.a. the Xenia-Jamestown Connector – on our second ride, we were riding southeast and again had a bit of a headwind. The surroundings were similar, but different enough to still feel like we were seeing something for the first time. We stopped for a picnic lunch at a bench along the trail and then continued on to Jamestown. It didn’t take long to do a quick circuit of town and from what we saw of the old downtown, it looked like it had seen better days.
We passed a skydiving place twice today, and the second time we noticed their red plane circling high above us. We stopped to watch and sure enough, 3 parachutes appeared like pin pricks in the sky. It was neat to watch them slowly circle down, although the first one came down so fast that we thought the chute had failed! They were fine, and in fact, made quite a skillful landing.
When we arrived back at the station in Xenia for the second time we still felt great. We rewarded ourselves with a walk to the bakery where we carefully selected our sweet trophies. We arrived back at our room just in time for dinner!
I’ve been meaning to take more pictures of our delicious meals, but I always forget to. Halfway through eating it, it never looks as good. Tonight I got a picture of our appetizer course, the salad; artisan lettuce, frozen cucumber, avocado, american bosc pear, sunflower and pumpkin seeds with citrus poppyseed dressing. We also had a Tika Masala over rice which we prepared in the microwave. And dessert was a lemon and lavender scone and a piece of peanut butter ritz pie.
We had a lot of fun in Cincinnati, but it was time to move on. We have a few days left and there are still some places we want to see and a few trails we want to ride before making our way back north to Ontario.
The drive up to the lookout at Devou Park provided an amazing view of Cincinnati and Covington. That is where we ate our breakfast. Afterwards we took a short walk on a trail through the woods and decided that we might take a break from riding today.
Fort Ancient Earthworks was another place we wanted to visit, so we drove there in about half an hour. The first part of the drive was on the interstate and the second half was on quiet country roads. We had to cross from one side of the Little Miami River to the other and the road literally plunged down one side of the valley and twisted up the other in rather dramatic fashion. Atop the bluffs on the east side of the river sits North America’s largest ancient hilltop enclosure.
The earthen mounds – built 2,000 years ago – are a fascinating glimpse into the history of not only the people who built them, but the people who inhabited the area for centuries afterwards. The museum there offered an array of exhibits and insights, while the grounds provided the physical context to the history. We spent a few hours there including a picnic lunch and a short hike down to the river and then back up. The bicycle trail goes right past Fort Ancient down by the river. We briefly thought about taking a short ride, but again, we thought a rest day from riding was in order.
Some of the flowers from our hikes today
Later in the afternoon we drove to Xenia, again, and that is where we’ll be staying for the next 2 nights. The trail hub here is incredible and we plan on doing some day rides from here (see the Day 10 blog post for description of Xenia Trail Hub).
Today we re-enacted riding into Cincinnati, but first, we had to ride out of the city. We took our breakfast with us on the road and ate at Riverside Park after crossing over the John A. Roebling Suspension Bridge again. We found a nice bench beside a flying pig play structure. Cincinnati a.k.a Porkopolis, was once the biggest pork processing centre in the country. The flying pig is said to represent the angelic spirits of all the slaughtered swine.
The trail along the downtown waterfront is really nice. There are all sorts of parks, amusements and amenities along the way. We didn’t pay very close attention on the way out, knowing we’d be coming back the same way. It is actually a really good way to ride because you can make note of things you want to get a closet look at. A mile or two out of downtown the route diverts to a bike lane along Hwy 52. We rode past the impressive looking Cincinnati Water Works and a brightly painted Bengal’s Bar called Who Dey (think gonna beat our Bengals N-O-B-O-D-Y). Sights like these and keeping an eye on traffic, pass the time differently than riding on a trail through the woods. We did end up back on the trail, and in no time, we were at Clear Creek Park – our turn-around point on yesterday’s ride.
On the way back into downtown Cincinnati we had the wind at our backs and we were flying along. We stopped for a picnic lunch by the Schmidt Boat Launch before continuing on our ride. The section of on-road riding was even shorter on the way back. Because we paid a little more attention, we picked-up the Ohio River Trail for part of the ride where we had missed it on the way out.
Another thing we noticed on the way out and paid more attention to on the way back was this interesting mirrored sculpture in T.M. Berry International Friendship Park. The linear park, named after the city’s first African-American mayor, features public art and flora representing the 5 continents. We had a great time posing and peering in and around “Castle of I”, representing Europe.
We crossed back into Kentucky on the Purple People pedestrian bridge and spent some time biking around in Newport. There are a few short trails there including the Levy Walk, but the streets weren’t that busy so we made our way back to Covington by crossing the Licking River and riding along one of the main strips. There is a vibrant feel to the area. It has the buzz of a big city without the skyscrapers and mega-infrastructure.
We were back at the hotel by 4pm and had and early supper with our feet up. We prised ourselves out of bed by claiming we’d go for a short walk, but both of us knew that once we went out we’dbe glad that we did. We walked over to Cincinnati on the Clay Wade Bailey Bridge this time and explored a little more of the lower downtown. There were a lot of other people downtown too. There was a Cincinnati Red’s baseball game earlier so fans were out consoling themselves and we heard some live music coming from one of the amohitheatres by the waterfront. We completed the loop by crossing over on the Roebling Bridge and made our way back to the hotel on the river trail we discovered earlier. Cincinnati is much more interesting than either of us thought it would be. It is a big city, but the way that it’s nestled in the tree-covered river valley gives it an enclosed feeling that makes it seem more contained and cozy. We’ve only seen a glimpse in our time here, but we are intrigued.
Milford to Cincinnati to Covington, Kentucky by car
We left Dayton after breakfast and Cincinnati was only an hour away by car so we stopped in Milford to do some riding on the Little Miami Scenic Trail (part of the OTET). Because we weren’t able to ride from Columbus to Cincinnati as we had originally planned, we are trying to ride some of the trail in different segments. We didn’t realize that Milford is a bit of a trail junction and is also at the southern end of Little Miami State Park. We’ve found that State Parks are usually really nice for riding – lots of tree cover, great scenery and rest areas – and they are often quite busy.
There were so many people on bikes on this stretch of trail and on a Wednesday morning of all times. We got the last parking spot which should have clued us in to how popular the trail is around here. Of course there were lots of lycra-road-racers, but there were all sorts of other riders too. Plus rollerbladers, walkers, dogs and horses too. We really had to pay attention to who was ahead of you and who was coming up from behind. There was a chorus of bike bells ringing and calls for ‘on the left’ – the official announcement for overtaking people on the trail.
We rode 10km south from Milford and then back. After a trail-side picnic we rode north for 10km and then back. During a break I hiked down to the river’s edge and was rewarded with a placid scene of stillness and green. Once we were back at the parking lot we readied the bikes on the rack, had a quick snack and then set off for Cincinnati.
We took Hwy 50 from Milford and it brought us into Cincinnati on the Columbia Parkway which follows along beside the Ohio River. It was a very scenic drive and then all of the sudden, we were downtown. We are staying in Covington, Kentucky – across the river from Cincinnati – which seems like an interesting spot. It is close to where we want to ride in downtown Cincinnati and it is a bit less expensive too. After we checked in, checked out the grocery store and settled in, we had dinner in our room. After that we went for a short walk to stretch our legs.
Our short walk got extended once we got going and we ended up over in Cincinnati. In the morning we’ll be riding across the John A. Roebling Suspension Bridge instead of walking, so we were actually doing some scouting too. I love cities with bridges and rivers so, like Dayton, I’m sure this will be an exciting few days.
Another day of riding in Dayton had us following the Miami River south. We took a short side trip on the Wolf Creek Trail to see the Paul Laurence Dunbar House. He was an important African-American writer and was close friends with the Wright brothers who lived and worked nearby. After that we visited the sight of the Wright brother’s bicycle shop. It has been restored and is also an interpretive centre that shows how the brother’s work in making bicycles aided their experiments in aviation.
When we finished soaking up all of the interesting information at the Dayton Aviation Heritage National Historical Park, we got back on the bikes and back to the trail. Wolf Creek to Great Miami and the headed south. We rode right alongside the riverbank as well as higher up the embankment. The trail goes under all the bridges with ‘exit ramps’ here and there that take you up to street level.
We rode as far as West Carrollton before we stopped for lunch. It was a lovely sunny day, but it was starting to get hot by this point in the day. We took it easy on the ride back into Dayton and we stopped at Carillon Park for a short break. After we got back to the hotel we went out for a walk downtown to use some different muscles. We stopped at The Rabbit Hole Bookstore. A well curated charity-boutique shop where every book is a dollar. One of the perks of traveling with a car is that we don’t need to restrain our purchases due to weight or size. We had early supper in our room and spent some time planning our next stop – Cincinnati.
Riverscape Park to Huffman Prairie Flying Field 35km
Riverscape Park to Wegerzyn Gardens 12km
In the morning we started the day with a short walk through downtown Dayton to warm up our legs. Breakfast smelled better when we got back to the hotel and we were just in time to serve ourselves scrambled eggs and Canadian bacon which was actually just ham. We ran a load of wash, hung it up to dry and then wheeled the bikes out of the hotel and onto the trail.
Just outside our door is the Great Miami River Trail, but where the Mad River joins the Miami we branched off to the Mad River Trail. We rode to Eastman Park, past the Mad River Run to the Wright Brother’s Memorial. From there we branched off on to the Wright Brothers-Huffman Prairie Trail which took us to the Hoffman Prairie Flying Field in the Wright Patterson Airforce Base. The trails seamlessly transition from one to another, but I’m keeping track of all the names for future reference.
Wright Brother’s Monument and Flying Field
The flying field was fascinating. Imagining the Wright brothers messing around in that field over a hundred years ago. That same field is now surrounded by a massive airforce base. That was the turnaround point for our ride, but we stopped at Huffman Park for our picnic lunch before retracing our route back downtown.
Later in the afternoon we went out by car to do some shopping. We browsed in a shoe store and a labyrinthine book store before wandering through Trader Joe’s. We went to Meijer for groceries and prepared another tasty dinner in our room. After dinner we went out for an evening ride – something we rarely do.
Again, leaving the hotel we started on the Great Miami River Trail and crossed over the pedestrian bridge to Deeds Point Park and rode past Kettering Field and Island Park. From there we switched over to the Stillwater River Trail, which follows – you guessed it – the Stillwater River. We went a few miles, as far as Wegerzyn Gardens and then turned back. The temperature outside was just perfect for riding, still warm, but not hot and barely a breeze. There were lots of people out too which is always a nice feeling, smiling and waving as we ride past. We got back before the sunset, ran another load of laundry and finally put our feet up to relax.
Sunny and cool in the morning, warmer in the afternoon. 24C
It was another perfect day for a ride and there are more trails around here than we have time. We wanted to see more of Springfield so we drove north several miles to Bowlusville Park and accessed the Simon Kenton trail from there. Then we started riding south into, through and then out of Springfield on the Little Miami Scenic Trail to Beatty Station – about 20km. We felt like we didn’t really see that much of the downtown and after consulting our maps again over lunch, we realized that we’d have to take an alternate route on the way back, in order to see more sights.
On the return trip, when we reached downtown, we rode the city streets to get a better feel for the city. Trails are generally more scenic, more relaxing and safer than riding on the road, but usually they bypass the city’s high street – as train lines often did.
After crossing over Buck Creek – the water way running through Springfield from the Clarence J Brown Reservoir to the Little Miami River – we passed by the Springfield Museum of Art and Veterans Park. From there we took the Buck Creek Trail upstream, passing through Old Reid Park to Buck Creek State Park. Snack time!
From there we backtracked along the Buck Creek Trail until it met up with the Simon Kenton Trail and we were back riding on the route we came in on. There were quite a few bridges and tunnels that easily brought us from the city out to the country side. Within no time we were back at the car and ready to move on.
Dayton was our next destination and about a half hour drive by car. We are booked in for 2 nights and our hotel is in a great location for riding – right downtown by the Miami River. After checking in and a delicious dinner in our room we took a stroll along the river to get our bearings. Again there are too many trails here to do them all, but we’ll try our best to ride as much as we can.
Day 10: Day trips from Springfieldon the Little Miami Trail
Yellow Springs to Xenia32km
From Waynesville / Corwin12km
Saturday, May 20
Overnight rain and clearing by mid morning. 23C
Traveling by bike with a car opens up a lot of possibilities and sometimes the hardest part is narrowing down what to do, considering all that you could do. Today we decided to stay close to Springfield and enjoy the nearby trails. And there are a lot of nearby trails!
We drove a few miles to the Glen Helen Nature Preserve where we could could park the car and access the Little Miami Scenic Trail. Then we rode south to Xenia because we were curious to see what a place called Xenia would look like.
Xenia is an interesting little city. This is where Hamvention – the Ham Radio Convention – is happening this weekend and why we couldn’t find a place to stay anywhere near it. There is a nice looking downtown and main street. Most impressive is the Xenia Station Bike Hub where 5 different bike trails converge. From the hub you can ride to Columbus, Cincinnati, Dayton, Springfield or Jamestown. All the trails have numbered routes, trail names and are colour coded. It really was a hub of bike activity and there was a fun looking playground.
We stopped for lunch across from the Farmer’s Market and looked around in a few shops and a bakery.
After lunch we rode back to where we had parked in Yellow Springs. Then we took a drive south to Waynesville along some beautiful country roads. Waynesville is another town where we would’ve been pedaling through on our way to Cincinnati. It too, was a neat little town, nothing like what we were expecting to see. After strolling along the main Street we hopped back in the car and drove less than a mile to where the OTET / Little Miami Scenic Trail comes through the neighbouring town of Corwin. Both of us were feeling a bit lazy by this point, but we decided to go for a short ride anyway. We rode north from Waynesville/Corwin just long enough to earn a snack break. We stopped at a bench, snacked and then pedaled back to the car.
I may be starting to take these trails for granted, and I feel like I’m failing to accurately describe how great they truly are. Most of them are entirely paved which makes for good riding, and they are all really well signed – including mileage and maps – which is helpful when passing through cities and towns. There are usually mature trees arcing up over the trail and a lush understory that provides ample shade and shelter from the wind. There are open areas too, so you also get some sun on your skin. I think we’ve just gotten quite used to the beauty of it all, so when I’m writing ‘riding along the trail’ I’m forgetting to mention the little chipmunks darting back and forth across the trail, and the deer leaping back into the woods just as you round a bend. There are tons of birds too. There are historic sites here and there that help to make the connection as to how these trails came into existence. It’s really rather fascinating. Perhaps the most impressive thing is the scope of the trail network. The state of Ohio has about 30 different trails ranging in length from a few miles to over 300 miles long. So when I write that we went for a short ride on the trail, there is a whole world of experience that is not effectively being communicated.
We found a different hotel to stay in tonight in Springfield. The room feels a little emptier without bikes and bags everywhere, but at least we can keep an eye on them out the window.
Day 9: in and around Columbus 37km and Columbus to Springfield by car.
Friday, May 19
Rain overnight, sunny and humid. 24C
We were expecting a rain day today and planned on entertaining ourselves indoors somewhere. The pavement was wet looking peering out of the hotel window, but the sun was just breaking through the clouds and it was already 20C outside. Now the forecast was for sun! We’d been meaning to rent e-bikes to so that is what we did.
After we ate breakfast we loaded our bikes onto the bike rack and loaded our luggage in the car. There was a COGO e-bike stand across the street, so we ambled over to unlock 2 bikes. It didn’t work the first time we tried it, but after both of us downloaded the app and uploaded our credit card info, presto! The bikes are fun to ride and for the first little while we played around with the toggle controls that sort of simulate gears on a bike. We rode out of the downtown towards the section of the trail we missed riding on the other day. It took almost an hour to reach the point where the bridge is out at Innes Park. For some reason we didn’t bring any food with us and we were starting to get hungry for lunch. When I pulled out my phone to see what was nearby, there was a notification saying that one of the e-bikes had a low battery. I looked up the nearest docking station that had e-bikes available and charted a new course. Wendy’s bike battery gave out first so we switched bikes. Pedaling a heavy e-bike with no ‘e’ isn’t much fun. It’s manageable on the flats and going downhill but a bit of a struggle going up. We limped to the charging station and swapped out our tired bikes for fresh ones. Then it was off to the grocery store for some fruit to tide us over.
After our own energy boost we made our way back downtown and returned the bikes to where we picked them up. Back across the street was the car and we hopped in and left the hotel parking lot. We found a shaded street by Topiary Park to have our late lunch and to decide where to go next. We’d like to be in Dayton on Monday so we drove west, ending up in Springfield – about a 40 minute drive and halfway to Dayton. Springfield has a trail running through it and we plan on riding some of it tomorrow.
Sunny and cool in the morning, warmer in the afternoon. 20C
Today was a much needed rest day for our legs. We knew that we wouldn’t be riding anywhere, but last night we realized that our plans were changing significantly. Originally we were aiming to ride all the way to Cincinnati on the OTEP, but due to unforseen circumstances we’ve had to come up with an alternative plan.
We weren’t able to secure accommodations at several places along the route between Columbus and Cincinnati. We tried searching multiple avenues, but there is a global Ham Radio convention in Xenia – Sounds like the beginning of a science fiction plot synopsis – and all the rooms in the towns both far and wide are fully booked. What can you do? So plan B was to rent a car and drive back to Cleveland to pick up my car. Then drive back to Columbus and figure the rest out from there. So that is what we did and we also did some sightseeing on the way.
The rental car place was a short walk from our hotel and because we had booked to stay in Columbus for 2 nights we were able to leave our bikes and baggage in the room to rest. It was a nice change to be sitting in a car instead of on a bike. The only pedaling I was doing was on the gas and the brakes. After we drove to Cleveland, picked up my car and dropped off the rental, we went back to Cuyahoga Valley National Park to the gift shop. There were some things we saw there we wanted to buy on our first time through, including a few books that were too heavy to travel with by bike. We also took a side trip to see Brandywine Falls which was a couple of miles from the trail, way up at the top of the valley side, another extra excursion we passed on when we traveled through earlier.
We had a picnic lunch, of course, and then drove the 2 hours back to Columbus. Grocery shopping was followed by dinner in our room and then we went out walking to see the Ohio Statehouse in Capitol Square. It was a quiet stroll and aside from the stately nature of the square, there is a really touching monument to Ohio veterans featuring a series of letters sent from soldiers inscribed in a limestone wall. Overall the day was a welcome change from riding and both of us feel like our legs needed a break. We haven’t decided exactly where we are headed tomorrow, but rain is forecasted so another day off is likely.
Today was supposed to be a short ride into downtown Columbus from Westerville and we were excited to be just taking it easy. After leaving the hotel after another egg and sausage breakfast, we got back on the trail heading south. Following the Alum Creek, the trail weaves its way through forested glens, past sports fields and past residential areas. It was cool in the shade, but the sun warmed us up when we were out in the open. After riding for almost an hour I remembered reading about the detour where a trail bridge was being replaced and sure enough we came to the dreaded ‘trail closed’ sign. Workers were on site working and without a bridge to cross over the creek we were looking for plan b. One option was to detour around on the road – a busy and narrow road with frequent truck traffic – and another was to retrace our route and connect to the Olentangy Trail which is another north/south trail following the Olentangy River into the city. We decided to take the long route and backtracked to where we started.
On the map, the alternate route is a lovely light green line that connects the Alum Creek Trail to the trail along the Olentangy River. In reality, the light green line follows along a busy road either on the sidewalk or as a bike lane, but only sometimes. So we rode that way for a bit before changing course again and finding a little bike trail to Sharon Woods. This is a big park north of Columbus and we found a way to cut through it to a better bike lane heading in our desired direction. Upon entering the park we discovered the path around Sharon Woods was freshly paved and bikes can only travel in one direction. We were intrigued and couldn’t resist riding the longway around. It was a beautiful ride and we had lunch on a bench there before continuing on.
The next leg of our alternate route was on roads and bike lanes, and we slowly worked our way across the city towards the Olentangy River. Finally we reached the Olentangy Trail and turned south. This trail took us through the Ohio State University campus and right past the iconic Ohio Stadium.
With only one more wrong turn, finally the Columbus skyline came into view. It wasn’t long after that, that we navigated our way from the trail to our downtown hotel. Had we gotten to Columbus earlier in the day we would have gone sightseeing anyway, so today’s round-a-bout way of getting there had us seeing sights we’d have probably missed otherwise. We had stopped to pick up our groceries on the way in, so we already had our supper with us when we checked in. After we ate we took a walk through part of the downtown and the nearby German Village and the Brewery District. We were back in our room before the street lights came on and as per our usual routine, we have our feet up in bed, working on the next leg of the trip.
Cloudy with the odd sprinkle of rain. SW light wind. 23C
We must be getting stronger because we had enough extra energy this morning to go for a walk around downtown Mount Vernon. We saw the historic town square and a fun piece of public art – inspired by a fountain in Toronto.
The Ohio to Erie Trail is a continuous trail from the Ohio River in Cincinnati to Lake Erie in Cleveland and it is made up of all sorts of trails, each with their own name. Today alone, we rode on 10 different ones: The Kokosing Gap Trail, The Heart of Ohio Trail, The Delaware County Trail, The Sandel Legacy Trail, The T.W. Hopper Trail, The Hoover Scenic Trail, The Genoa Trail, The Blue Star Trail, The Westerville Bike & Walk Route and The Alum Creek Trail. I had to keep notes to remember them all!
Aside from our usual trail-side snack breaks on a bench or just standing beside our bikes, we encountered some extraordinary reststops today. The closer we got to Columbus the nicer they seemed to get.
It did rain a little bit throughout the day, but never enough to get us or the trail wet. We’d get a bit damp and then the combination of the sun struggling to come out and the mild breeze would dry us off before we ever needed our rain jackets. The cloud cover also kept us from needing to reapply sunscreen which has become a daily chore.
We searched out a grocery store just off the trail on the way into Westerville, knowing that there weren’t any nearby the hotel where we’d be staying. Kroeger is a mega-supermarket and we spent awhile cruising the aisles before deciding what to order for dinner. Tonight’s meal was built around salsa and chips.
When we finally arrived at our hotel we were pleasantly surprised. We wheeled our bikes into the 7 story indoor atrium and rode up in the glass walled elevator to our room. The 2 room suite has more than enough space to stretch out in, and we haven’t even got to enjoy the sectional couch yet. We ate dinner at the table instead of in bed and we didn’t have to wash the dishes in the bathroom sink!
Tomorrow we’ve got a short ride into Columbus. We’ve got to finalize the details for the next leg of the trip and we’re planning on doing some sight-seeing and some relaxing!
This morning we broke the mold. After preparing oatmeal in our room we decided to take a look at the hotel’s breakfast offering. Somehow the scrambled eggs and sausages were calling to us, so we had our first hotel breakfast and packed our oatmeal for later.
The trail was only a short, downhill roll away from the hotel and we were back on the Holmes County Trail (HCT) in minutes. There was a long straightaway for a couple of miles and we followed along beside Killbuck Creek into the town of Killbuck. Leaving town however, were surprised that the signs had us going back on the highway. We rode the next 5 miles along the quiet and curvy hwy 520. The road traced the valley bottom, but there were some rolling hills that kept our legs pumping. Arriving in Glenmont, we were happy to see that we’d be rejoining the HCT (We later learned that a brigde is out on the trail, resulting in the lengthy detour). At the access point in Glenmont there were a few picnic tables, a gazebo and a port-a-potty. All good omens of things to come. It was here that we ate our oatmeal.
Excited to be off of the road and back on the placid trail through the woods, we set off. Immediately we noticed that we were riding uphill. Uphill climbs rarely exceed a 4 percent grade on rail trails because trains can’t traverse anything steeper than that. Sometimes these grades are almost imperceptible on a bike. Through experience we have learned that when our speed drops and our legs are still pumping away, we are going uphill. This is what we noticed here. No big deal, and still better than riding on the road. I even said that I could pedal like this all day. Well, we climbed uphill for 6km before finally cresting an even steeper peak. We had just climbed over Baddow Pass. At this point we were thankful for our second breakfast!
Like the saying goes, what goes up, must come down and we enjoyed an equally long and relatively gentle descent on the other side of Baddow Pass. Now we were in another county and riding on the Mohican Valley Trail (MVT). Our next point of interest was the Bridge of Dreams – the longest pedestrian-only covered bridge in Ohio.
We stopped for lunch before crossing the bridge at another well appointed rest stop. After our trail-side picnic we crossed the bridge over the Mohican River with still another 20 miles to go. We broke the afternoon ride first into 10km sections and then 5km as our legs waned. Apples, bananas and chocolate was the fuel we used to keep our strength up and slowly, but surely we inched closer to our destination. In Gambier at our final stop we were greeted by a woman on a recumbent bicycle. She asked where we were headed and where were we from. We started chatting and she announced that she is a host for Warm Showers – a network of reciprocating, cyclist friendly, free accommodations. She offered us a place to stay and recommended some local spots. We’d already booked a room, but we’ll be following up on the bakery she mentioned. The three of us rode together for a ways on the trail before we pulled away. She was in no rush to get home and we were making our final push on a long ride. Our spirits were lifted sufficiently and we forgot all about our tired legs as we made our way into Mount Vernon. Once again our hotel was close to the trail and the grocery store just down the road! Tomorrow we will be arriving in Columbus.
It was nice to see the sun again after our ride in the rain yesterday. Both of us slept in again, but once we were up it didn’t take long for us to get going. We took our breakfast with us for the first time on this trip, hoping to get 10km in before stopping to eat.
Once we reached the trail – named the Sippo Valley Trail in this section – we were enveloped in a wash of green. The sunlight was sprinkling through the trees leaving a shady path for us to follow. It seemed pretty quiet on the trail for a Sunday morning. There were some folks walking, but only a couple of other people on bikes. We found a nice bench in the shade to eat our oatmeal after riding the first 9km.
The trail took us into Dalton, a small town west of Massilon, then our route continued on rural roads for the next 17 miles. The countryside is beautiful here with rolling hills, farmland and forested areas.
At the top of our first hill we stopped to make a few adjustments and were greeted and joined by two other long-haul cyclists coming from the other direction. The couple – from Montana – had been riding from New Orleans! We swapped stories, strategies and a few questions before eventually saying our goodbyes.
We stopped for lunch at a picnic shelter in Holmesville and watched some Amish kids playing baseball. There is a large Amish population in this part of Ohio and they all ride e-bikes! The OTET picks up again in Holmesville and is called the Holmes County Trail (HCT). It is a dedicated recreational trail and a horse and buggy path – the only one like it in the U.S. The path is double-wide and posted with sign, bikes on one side, buggies on the other.
Being Sunday, the HCT was busy with horse and buggy traffic as well as local Amish on their e-bikes, and with them zipping around, it was us who felt like we were living in the past. We took a break later in the afternoon and sat and watched the traffic roll by.
Millersburg was only a few miles down the trail and our hotel only a few blocks from the trail. The grocery store was tucked behind the hotel and there was a laundromat next door too. We’ve been working on our planning, trying to find places to stay that are close to the trail and it makes a huge difference at the end of the day.
Light rain in the morning, slowly clearing throughout the day. 23C
It was a little loud sleeping above a bar on a Friday night but it takes more than thumping bass and drunken chatter to keep us awake after riding all day. Not even the garbage truck at 6am can interfere with our rest and relaxation.
The sky was grey when we did get up and the forecast was calling for rain. Rain isn’t that big of a deal, especially when the temperature is fairly mild. We both carry rain jackets and today we’d be keeping them at the top of our packs. We have dry-sacks inside our panniers to keep all of our other stuff dry and we also have rain covers for our tool bags. After we carried our bags and bikes down to street level we noticed that the road was already wet. We also noticed a crudely rendered outline of a body in the parking space by my bike! That, I chalk up to an amateur’s attempt at subversive satire. We pulled out our rain coats and said goodbye to Park Place.
The rain went from light to steady as we made our way along the Firestone streets, boulevards, parks and parkways. By the time we got back on the trail the rain was dripping off our jackets on to the rest of us. We basically had the trail to ourselves in the morning, only passing two solo walkers. It is not as much fun stopping for picnics in the rain, but at the trail head in Clinton there were 3 covered shelters to choose from. We lingered longer than normal enjoying our crackers and cheese, tomatoes, avocado and leftover mac’n cheese. The rain seemed to be easing up by the time we were leaving but we kept our raincoats on so as not to provoke the weather keepers. The air seemed warmer too which is always a nice combination for riding in the rain.
A lot of the trail has been paved up until this point, but today the trail was mostly crushed limestone AKA stone dust. In dry conditions stone dust is the next best thing to asphalt, but in wet weather it can get a bit soft and is known in cycling jargon as peanut-buttery. In addition to slowing us down, the stone dust sticks to anything wet which in this case is all of us and every surface on our bikes. Normally this is not a big deal, in fact being covered in mud, dirt or dust is often seen as a badge of honour. However, when you are anticipating checking into a nice hotel and hoping to casually wheel your bikes into the lobby and up to your room it is a simple courtesy not to leave a gritty trail of driping stone dust in your wake. It was in this spirit of common decency that we stopped under an overpass to hose our bikes off using a water bottle and the fresh water of the Tuscarawas River. And, like most bathing rituals, we did feel cleaner afterwards.
The last leg of our ride was on asphalt, right up until we reached the outskirts of Massilon. Here the trail coincides with the town’s levee and it’s surface is of course, stone dust. Thankfully the rain had pretty well stopped by this point and our bikes remained relatively dry and therefore clean. We did one final wipedown with a rag before reaching the hotel, and we rolled up to the check-in desk looking like our driest and cheeriest selves. After squeezing our bikes into the elevator and gaining entry to our room, we peeled off our wet clothes, gritty socks and shoes. The view from our room looks out over Massilon’s historic downtown and the now the sun was shining! After freshening up we put on our wet shoes again and walked over to the Save-a-lot grocery store to see the dinner menu. It is a fairly small store so our cravings were not completely satisfied, but we managed to fill two bags which we gleefully carried back to our room. It started raining again and we were more than content to climb into bed and eat.
Sunny and warm with cloud cover in the afternoon. 27C
Finally we are ready for heading south on the Ohio to Erie Trail! After sleeping in until 8am we slowly started getting our stuff organized. We thought that we’d be having a conversation with the manager about us leaving our car behind, but when we learned that she wouldn’t be in until almost noon we left her a note instead. Basically it said that we acknowledge that the hotel bears no responsibility for what may or may not happen to my car. Then we put the bike rack in the trunk and we were off.
It was about a mile to the trailhead and it was all downhill on a busy road. We stayed on the sidewalk, riding our brakes the whole way down and arrived safely in parking lot for Lock 39 – where we rode from yesterday. This is also the northern edge of the Cuyahoga Valley National Park which extends southwards almost all the way to Akron.
The park is beautiful, especially at this time of year when the leaves are finally unfurling from their spring buds. The understory is already bursting with greenery, but thankfully it seems that the bugs are late to the party. There were a lot of other people out on the trail including dog walkers, joggers, day-trippers and a few other long-haulers. There are many other access points along the length of the park and every parking lot we saw had people coming and going. There is even a special train – the Cuyahoga Valley Scenic Railway – that runs the length of the park. We didn’t ride the train today but we are trying to work it into our return trip.
We stopped in the shade for our first lunch break alongside one of the old locks near Boston. As nice as it is to have some warmer weather it was getting pretty hot in the sun. We were both slathered in sunscreen and when we are riding we create our own breeze, but stopping in the sun is a little too much when there is cool shade to be had. After lunch we browsed in the gift shop which had an attractive selection of just about everything you’d expect to find in a gift shop. We are planning to pay another visit when we have the car again so we can pick up some puzzles, books, bumper stickers, soap, chocolate and walking sticks!
In the afternoon we stopped a few more times for water and snacks while slowly getting closer and closer to Akron and there was a long climb up to the city with a summit of 600 feet. A lot of the accommodations in Akron are nowhere near the trail and in order to avoid having to pedal several more miles through town, we found an Air B&B near the trail on the south side of town. A little more scouting during a rest stop revealed an Aldi grocery store quite close to the trail too. So on the way by we stopped at the store to pick-up more food and then hopped on the trail again to get to our beds. We got slightly lost trying to find the B&B due to some confusion between Firestone Pkwy and Firestone Boulevard East, West, North and South. It seems like a lot of things in Akron are either called Firestone or Bridgestone as it is home to the latters technology centre. We did find our place in the end, nestled above a hole in the wall bar complete with solitary drinkers inside and curious imbibers out on the patio.
Once we hauled all of our stuff up the long staircase, we quickly settled in. We whipped up a delicious meal in the full kitchen although we only needed the microwave and a cutting board. Dinner was a quinoa salad with mac’n cheese and squash on the side – all things we’d been craving and talking about for hours! The apartment is nice overall although we can hear the jukebox through the floor and the TV is in the living room so we can’t watch it from bed. Other than that we are quite happy to be relaxing with our feet up on a Friday night after a fun and full day of riding.
The sun was up well before us this morning and when we pulled back the curtains, our room was flooded with sunshine surrounded by a bright blue sky. We finalized our packing as we ate our oatmeal. I culled 2 shirts, a pair of gloves and a pair of socks from my cache and stowed them away in the trunk of the car. We were on the road a little after 9am and took the interstate into Cleveland.
We still had to figure out where to park the car for a couple of weeks while we’re cycling and also where we’d be staying tonight. I had researched some long term parking options near the airport and although they were cost effective, they weren’t that close to the trail. We decided to ask around in person in a cluster of hotels that were nearby the trail. Some of the hotels were out of our price range. One of them – with a logo of a red roof – still brings back awful memories from a previous stay and both of us shuddered at the thought of having to stay there. At the first place we asked about parking they flat out turned us down. At the next place, after checking with the manager, they said sure. So we made a reservation to stay the night and got 2 weeks of free parking! These were the 2 things we needed to accomplish today and we had them completed before noon!
It was time to go for a ride so we drove down to the trail – less than a mile away- and got the bikes ready to ride. Tomorrow we’re heading south towards Akron, so we decided to ride north into downtown Cleveland. We loaded our bags onto the bikes so we’d get used to hauling weight and set off on the trail.
The Ohio to Erie Trail follows the Cuyahoga River at this point, but it also charts the course of the old towpath when barges were towed up and down the waterway by mules. We passed through lovely treed areas along the way as well as a smattering of light industrial areas before the valley opened up to reveal the remnants and hulking behemoths of the city’s steel industry. The mills and factories are strung together by a multitude of rail lines, all of which wend along the bottom of the river valley connecting the lake ports to the interior.
There are a lot of bridges in Cleveland that either span the river, or in some cases, the entire valley. Riding along was like touring an engineer’s arcade and passing underneath all the spans, the trail is an asphalt ribbon. We watched as the iconic skyline inched closer and eventually we ended up downtown, but unfortunately our progress toward the Lake Erie shore was halted by the Centre Street Swing Bridge closure. So we backtracked and found another bike route heading south but after a few more miles we decided just to admire the lake from afar.
Finding our way back was easy enough and we stopped to snack as we pedalled back to the car. The 45km that we rode was the furthest either of us has ridden this year and our legs felt good, but we didn’t want to overdo it. We are both looking forward to leaving the car behind and riding south in the morning.
We were on the road just before 10am with about a five hour drive ahead of us to get to Ashtabula. Leaving by car is nice because we can always bring a few extra things with us before having to ultimately decide whether or not we have enough room in our bags for all of it.
They always seem so full! Bursting at the seams with different layers of clothes for various temperatures and levels of precipitation. Then there are the bottles and tubes of lotions and potions along with a whole assortment of various hygienic impliments. Not to mention the tool bag which is full of every conceivable mechanical remedy to pretty much any minor bicycle malfunction you can think of. In our ‘kitchen’ we’ve got a selection of plastic containers for dishes and cutlery, cups, knives, a cutting board, can opener, vegetable peeler, dish soap, dish cloth and tea towel. Not to mention the food we carry which varies from day to day. I’m actually understating the amount of stuff we bring with us because I don’t need to produce an official inventory list. The point I’m trying to make is that all of the little things do add up. Packing for a trip like this is a balancing act between traveling light and being prepared. Between roughing it and getting to enjoy yourself. I love the challenge and it is very satisfying knowing you have everything thing that you could possibly need and not an item more.
The long drive was actually pretty relaxing. We bounced ideas back and forth and slowly our plan is taking shape. It is exciting to have the flexibility to create our itinerary as we go along. One thing that is for certain, is that we’ve got 3 weeks on the road and that is already quite an accomplishment in and of itself.
After arriving in Ashtabula we stopped at the mobile phone store to get connected with new SIM cards. Then we stopped at one of our favorite food stores – Aldi – to select our supper. Finally, a drive down the main thoroughfare brought us to the Cedar Motel which checked all of our boxes for what we’re looking for in a motel. It’s official! The trip has begun.
We had a lovely night in our lovely motel room last night. I forgot to mention that the first motel we checked into yesterday was a bit of a dump, even rivaling our room in Flint. As the deficiencies slowly revealed themselves our sense of ease evaporated. After about an hour of trying to find the humour in it we did something we’ve never done before – we left. I had a chat with the proprietor who did attempt to assuage our concerns. He asked for some feedback and so I toured him through the room pointing out its various shortcomings. He wasn’t happy about it and neither were we. Down the street at another motel we were welcomed to something more like what we were expecting – a clean room with sheets, blankets and towels. So, on the last night of our trip, we enjoyed ourselves.
It was only a 2 hour drive back to my place in Kitchener and we arrived just before noon. After a quick lunch with leftovers from out trip we went for a bike ride. We rode past of the Walter Bean Trail along the Grand River from Bridgeport to Rim Park. The sun was shining and the temperature had warmed up. The leaves were looking glorious and the air was fresh. It was a great ride. Maybe we didn’t need to go all the way to Michigan to ride our bikes, but sometimes being away from home is just what you need to appreciate it when you return. Plus, we got to stay in a bunch of motels, which can be fun if you pick the right ones.
It was another crisp morning today with the temperature just above freezing. Our place in Auburn was in the middle of nowhere so we packed up early and took our breakfast to nearby Bay City on the Saginaw River. We took a brisk walk around the downtown to limber up and then ate our oatmeal – in the car – in the sun. Simply having bikes attached to the back of your car is sometimes enough to make you feel like you are on a bike trip, but nothing compares to actually riding. We put on our hats, mitts, windpants, longjohns and anything else we had to keep warm and pulled the bikes off of the rack. Once we got going we remembered how much fun it is to ride.
We were following the Bay City Loop which is a paved pathway that goes from the east side of the river in a big arcing loop around the city. From downtown through industrial areas, residential and then back. We ended up crossing the river on to the island called Middle Ground and along the boardwalk to Veterans Memorial Park. The Liberty Bridge was temporarily closed so we couldn’t complete the loop, so we backtracked a bit and found our way back to Wenonah Park where we started.
The west wind was tough to pedal into but because we rode a loop it was short lived. It was an otherwise invigorating ride and a great way to see the city. Once we packed up and loaded the bikes, we set off for Saginaw.
We drove through Saginaw and stopped for lunch at a park by the river. We didn’t get to see too much before we got going again, but the day was getting on and we still had some driving ahead of us. Our last stop before the border was Port Huron.
There we stopped to stretch our legs and we took a nice walk under the Bluewater Bridge along the St Clair River. Ultimately we decided to cross back into Canada and spend the night in Sarnia, saving us that ordeal in the morning. We said farewell to Michigan and promised to come back soon. We feel like we have discovered a whole new cycling world there and we are keen to keep exploring it.
We were surprised not to see snow flakes in the air this morning when we peeked out from behind the curtain in our room. The ground was still wet and the wind was blowing hard from the north. We had planned to go for a walk to warm up anyway, so we bundled up and drove down to the beach at Clinch Park. From there we took a brisk walk along the waterfront, watching the white caps roll in off of the West Arm of Grand Traverse Bay. The sun was struggling to come out and when we had a bit of shelter from the wind it was quite nice to be outside.
We walked into downtown and along Front Street past many interesting looking shops. It was still a little early and not many of them were open yet so we drove back to the hotel and ate our oatmeal in the room. After we packed up and checked out we went back downtown to do some shopping. Traverse City has a great looking downtown and there were all sorts of people bustling around.
Our next stop was The Village at Grand Traverse Commons. This is and old insane asylum-cum-hospital complex built in 1884 that has been more recently redeveloped into a commercial district with shops, dining and offices. There was also a bakery there! We browsed through the shops and listened in on a guided tour before they descended into the underground tunnels. We ate lunch at the bakery and then planned our route for driving to Auburn.
We really had good intentions to do some riding today but neither of us could muster enough drive to overcome the cold and biting wind. On the other hand, when we ride we usually don’t leave ourselves much time to sightsee, so we were happy with strolling around in the city. In fact, part of this trip was to do some research into future destinations for bike trips and we definitely have a serious contender in Michigan.
We gladly would have spent another night or two in Traverse City but the weekend rates for accommodations are astronomical. With only a couple of days left on our trip we are starting to work our way south, setting up a shorter drive to the border and back home when the time comes.
Cool and rainy with a splash of afternoon sun. 14C
There was no surprise about the forecast today. We just weren’t sure how ambitious we’d feel and how badly we’d want to get wet. As it turned out, we weren’t the least bit ambitious and we were quite happy to stay dry.
We did take a short walk in the rain this morning to the bakery beside our motel. We bought doughnuts, fritters and a little loaf. After breakfast we started our driving tour by crossing back over the Mackinac Bridge. In Mackinaw City we stopped to do some shopping. We did get a little wet walking the main street as the rain intensified, but we’d dry off in each store we visited.
Leaving Mackinaw City we took the scenic highway – a very narrow road by the lake under a tunnel of trees – but it was actually too scenic. Passing cars had to take turns sharing the road and it would have taken us forever to get where we wanted to go. We upgraded to the next level of highway on the way to Harbour Springs which was still very scenic, and then stopped in Petoskey for a picnic lunch again. We thought that if the the rain had stopped then we would go for a bike ride, but it didn’t stop and we were still feeling lazy, so we ate some more doughnuts and kept driving to Traverse City. We did get a little bit of exercise after lunch by climbing a big set of stairs.
Petoskey picnic – our car and bikes in the background
The remainder of the drive to Traverse City was very nice but the traffic was building later in the afternoon. We were happy to be off the road when we arrived and aside from a quick trip to the grocery store we are content relaxing in our room. We do plan on riding in the morning and the weather forecast looks good.
Originally we thought Sault Ste Marie would be a good mid-point destination for our trip and we were curious to see what the cycling would be like, both in the city and along the Trans-Canada highway. We have been piecing together our cross Canada trip for years and still have to ride from Winnipeg back to Ontario. The highway through this part of the country is definitely rideable, but it is also potentially dangerous and there are some very long distances between towns with accommodations. Both of those factors have kept us from prioritizing this leg of our trip. The narrow and nonexistent paved shoulders we saw today along the highway only reinforced our concerns. The highway conditions in Michigan – and the vast trail network – make riding across the continent not only feasible, but also desirable.
By the time we arrived in Sault Ste Marie we had basically discounted doing any cycling at all. We did take a driving tour of the city butcwe were really excited to do some hiking. We read about a hike at Robertson Cliffs and decided to give it a try. It was a 30 minute drive north to the trailhead and there were multiple routes to choose from ranging from 2 to 12 km. We settled somewhere in the middle.
The first part of the hike was pretty steep initially but leveled out after the first ascent. From there we walked a big circular loop past a couple of waterfalls before rounding the backside of the cliffs. The overstory of the tree canopy was already turning brilliant orange, but the understory was still vibrant and green. The sun finally burned off the morning mist, casting the forest floor in a colourful light.
As we climbed again and worked our way out to the southern face if the ridge, we got our first glimpse of the vista below.
Lake Superior can be seen in the distance to the south. After breathing in the view we stopped for a light lunch on a coffee table sized rock.
The rest of the hike was spent slowly working our way from one lookout to the next. Each viewpoint was worth the time to simply enjoy.
Finally the trail started to descend and we poked our way down as both of us had walking sticks by this point. There was a steady stream of people working their way up to the cliffs on this section of the trail. The route we took was round the back which was longer, less direct and not as busy. We did strike up a good conversation with a local couple who were on there way farther afield to King Mountain.
Our legs felt good at the end of the hike, but it was nice to sink down into the car seats and put our feet on the pedals for a change. We drove back to the city and back across the border into Michigan.
After yesterday’s fun cycling on Mackinac Island , today we thought we’d take it easy and do some exploring along the North Western State Trail. This trail runs through Mackinaw City to the west and then heads south. Instead of riding from town we decided to drive in the car a few miles to Alanson and pick up the trail there.
The trail was paved and started out along the highway in town before diverging into the woods. It passed by Crooked Lake through Oden and Conway, and Round Lake where we took a break.
We came across the Michigan Trails Council building at a trail junction and stopped to see if they had any maps. They had a lot of maps. It seems like daily we are learning about more trails through the state and it is starting to get daunting. Daunting because we only have so much time on this trip and there are way too many routes to choose from. Traveling by car, we have to pick and choose there-and-back rides instead of traveling in a linear way which involves more thinking and planning than we are used to.
We continued on to Petoskey along the Little Traverse Wheelway Trail where we got our first views of Lake Michigan and Little Traverse Bay. We took a stroll along the breakwater at Bayfront Park and I tested the waters with my fingertips.
The return ride was just as nice. The scenery looks a different enough heading in the other direction to keep it interesting. We arrived back at the car in Alanson just after 2pm and started our drive north. We revisited the Topinabee Rest Stop for a late lunch picnic.
From there we were ready to head to Sault Ste Marie for another leg of our journey. It took about an hour of driving once we crossed the Mackinac Bridge and then we were back in Canada. I think we got the last motel room in the city. We had forgotten the hype that surrounds fall foliage season and the city is busy. Plans are afoot for tomorrow!
We were both excited to be going to Mackinac Island today. It was a short ride to the ferry dock from our motel and the 9am sailing – which as an added perk took us under the Mackinac Bridge – had us disembarking before 10am.
Mackinac Bridge
The island is situated between Michigan’s upper and lower peninsulas and it is certainly inhabited, however there are no motorized vehicles permitted. No cars, no trucks, no buses. There are lots of bicycles and there are a lot of horses, carriages and people walking around. It really is a bit of a culture shock, but when you were planning to go bike riding for the day, it’s actually kind of utopic.
Lake Shore Blvd
We started our ride going clockwise around the island on Lake Shore Blvd from Downtown to British Landing . From there we followed British Landing Rd inland, retracing the route that the British used to recapture the Island; kicking off the War of 1812 on the Great Lakes.
Sugar Loaf Rock
Sugar Loaf Rock can be seen from the highest point on the island known as Fort Hill where what is called Fort Holmes was recreated. The history of the island is quite fascinating and is worth further investigation.
Fort Holmes
As we got a feel for riding on around the island we worked our way from one end to the other. Around lunchtime we made our way back downtown through the Mission District to see what we could get to eat. The whole town seems to be kept in a state of good repair and is really quite pleasant looking on the whole.
Mission District
After sizing up the local deli shop we decided to eat the food that we brought with us. We figured we could buy more food later if we needed to. Then we found a sunny and sheltered place by the water to have a picnic.
Lunch overlooking Lake Huron
After lunch we rode counter-clockwise on Lake Shore Blvd around the east side of the Island to British Landing, passing below Arch Rock. Later we passed by above Arch Rock.
Arch Rock
There are supposed to be 70 miles of trails on the island and we rode a lot of them. We rode a few of them more than once like Leslie Ave and Scott’s Cave Rd. Some of the other sights we saw were Devil’s Kitchen, Skull Cave, Crack in the Island and Cave in the Woods. The whole experience was very impressive.
Around the Island
There must have been a few thousand bicycles at various rental outfits in the downtown area. There were easily several hundred lining the streets and parked at various lockups. Although there weren’t any motor vehicles to watch out for, there were plenty of horse-drawn carriages. And there was plenty of horse poop on the roads too. These are both things I could get used to.
Downtown
It really was a magical day. After one last lap around the island and a final run on our favourite trail, we coasted back down into the downtown. With only a few minutes to spare, we rolled up to the ferry dock and boarded the ship. As the sun was setting over the Straits of Mackinac we recounted our otherworldly day of riding.
Both of us got a good night’s sleep despite our icky room and the curious cacophony of nocturnal sounds. We were up and ready to get out by 7am but with no microwave or coffee maker to make our oatmeal. The lobby which may have had hot water available wasn’t going to open until 8am. In the past – in a pinch – we’ve made tea from hot tap water, but we were in Flint after all so decided against it this morning. We took a short walk and lo and behold there was a Starbucks next door. With the purchase of an espresso we were provided with enough hot water to make our oatmeal and my cup of tea. Things were looking up!
We had decided to do a short ride before we left the city and had seen the Flint River Trail crossing one of our routes from yesterday. After we checked out and cleared out, it was a short drive to a parking lot which would serve as our trailhead this morning. It was sunny and cool but we kept warm by pedaling towards downtown Flint. The trail started leafy and green as it passed through a residential area before opening up into the Chevy Commons County Park. There was some colorful artwork that continued to enliven our spirits.
At the Durant Dort Factory One we posed for pictures with their namesake bronze personas. Both figures were prominent in the auto industry and helped to revive the Buick brand.
We passed by Kettering University and the University of Michigan – Flint, both of which have a substantial presence in the city. Pedaling through the campus we passed through Riverbank Park and Amphitheater Park. It being a Sunday morning the area was practically deserted, but it must be a fairly bustling place during the week.
As we passed through the other side of Flint the trail narrowed a bit and the pavement started to crack. We rode another mile or so to Vietnam Veterans Park where we stopped to have our breakfast in the sun by a dock at the river. There was a cool wind blowing from the north, but our oatmeal was still warm which helped push the chill from our hands. After we ate we crossed over the river and made our way back on the opposite bank.
Breakfast stop by the riverDowntown Flint
We took a short detour from the trail and rode a few blocks into downtown Flint. It looked like an intriguing litte city. Of course everything was closed but we saw a few interesting shops including the Hat Store and a pipe shop. We arrived back at the car just after 10am and after we loaded the bikes onto the rack we were heading north on the I-75.
After driving for a little over an hour we were starting to think about lunch. Studying the map, we decided to get off the highway and have a picnic by the water. We found a nice spot at the beach in Linwood overlooking Saginaw Bay. The wind was howling so we ate in the car.
Linwood Beach
Back on the road, we missed our turn back to the interstate so followed hwy 13 through Pinconning. Once we got back on I-75 we were zipping along again. The speed limit is 75mph which is equivalent to 120kmh. Most people were passing us. I get the sense that America does driving well. We stopped at 2 different rest stops along the way which looked like they could have been State Parks. Both had immaculate restrooms, well kept grounds with picnic tables and even BBQ stations. At the Topinabee Rest Area we hiked a trail up a short hill through the woods to a scenic lookout. Looking west, we could just make out a sliver of Burt Lake in the distance.
Topinabee Rest Area
Our final stop today was Mackinaw City. We found a nice little motel among many and we quickly settled in. The room seems like a 5 star resort after our experience at the Red Roof last night. There is a trail nearby which we rode on into town. On the way we stopped at the trailhead where we saw maps of more nearby trails. Our plan for tomorrow is to go to Mackinac Island, but after that, who knows!
Day 1: Kitchener, Ontario to Flint, Michigan by car
Saturday, October 1st
Sunny and mild. 19C
My mom and I have found some time to squeeze in a Fall bike trip. Our plan is to combine a traditional car-based road trip interspersed with some cycling day trips. We are heading to Sault Ste Marie via Michigan and we will see what we see along the way.
We left my place in Kitchener after lunch and started driving west. Crossing the border between Sarnia and Port Huron over the Bluewater Bridge was fast and easy and was the water ever blue! We drove for another hour, arriving in Flint around 5pm.
After having previewed some potential accommodations earlier while we still had internet we knew there was a cluster of hotels to choose from by the airport. As we approached that part of town we exited the interstate and started looking. Between the blinding late afternoon sun and the unfamiliarity of the city, we had to do a couple of passes up and down the strip before we got our bearings. The first place we found was closed. The second place we found looked a little too tired.
We finally settled on the Red Roof Inn which did look a little thrifty but was surrounded by somewhat respectable looking businesses including an IHOP. In the office we learned that they did in fact have rooms available but that we’d have to wait a little while for housekeeping to finish getting the beds ready. Not ones to argue, we figured that that sounded reasonable and got back in the car to find the mobile phone shop and the grocery store we drove past earlier. Surprisingly we found the T Mobile store pretty easily and they got our pre-paid SIM cards up and running again in no time. The grocery store took us a bit more searching and it wasn’t where we thought it was after all. The store was called Kroger – new to us – and we stopped in for a few bits to add to what we’d brought along. After shopping we filled the car with gas and then found our way back to the Red Roof. After driving this route for the third time things were becoming familiar.
At the hotel we finished checking in and made our way up to the second floor to our room. Or rather, tentatively stepped in and around piles of garbage, pizza boxes, bottles and butts. Abandoned laundry carts only alluded to what may have happened at the Red Roof on Friday night. Our room looked quite nice at first, but as our eyes adjusted, our checklist of lacklusterness grew. Rumpled, half-hanging curtains, no lampshades, no towels – save one – face cloths for hand towels, one pillow each and no top sheets. Not to mention the innumerous spots, stains and burn marks that adorned every surface in the room including the walls and ceiling. Even the framed picture was missing from the wall, as was the chain for the door. Nonetheless, we made ourselves at home and planned our escape while we ate our dinner. There is a TV with cable but the remote doesn’t work so we’ve been taking turns standing up and channel surfing by using the buttons on the back of the screen. The choices are mostly Football; red team, blue team, gold team or green team. The most memorable stays are always the worst ones and the best ones. Nobody ever recollects or relishes the mediocre places they spent the night. And this one will go down in our storied history alongside the Gold Dust Motel and Cell Block 7.
We have plans to some riding in Flint in the morning. Check back with us to see how it goes!
From left: James, Duncan, Don, Yvonne, Wendy, Glor
Day 1: Arrive in Rochester, NY – by car
Saturday, August 6
Sunny, hot and humid. 32C
So the six of us have reunited to do some cycling for the first time since the Covid 19 pandemic started. The six of us are: myself, my mom and dad (Wendy and Don), Duncan, and sisters Glor and Yvonne. We left in 2 vehicles from two different starting points and together nearly circumnavigated Lake Ontario. Glor and Yvonne picked me up in Kitchener, ON and we crossed the US border at the Lewiston-Queenston Bridge. Aside from some typical Ontario super highway congestion, the drive was great. There was no wait whatsoever to cross the border and the remainder of the drive to Rochester was basically pleasant. Don, Wendy and Duncan met up in Kingston, ON and drove east around the lake crossing the border at Gananoque. By 5pm we were all safely settled in the rental house in Rochester.
The house is perfect for what we need on this trip. It’s location is absolutely ideal for our purposes as it is situated where the Erie Canalway Trail intersects the Genesee River Trail Way. For all of our planned routes, we can actually ride right from our front door.
Photos by Duncan
Glor, Yvonne and I took a short walk through the neighborhood before the others arrived and we were on the bike trail within minutes. Despite the oppressive heat and humidity we had a nice stroll along the trail in the shade. We went further than we intended but came across a really interesting mural painted on the side of an old, vacant industrial building. We dubbed it ‘the chicken’. Our curiosity was piqued. We asked or accosted a couple of locals to get some answers to our inquiries about the history of the building but have not gotten any satisfactory answers yet. We even made friends with some of our neighbors, with whom we have crossed paths multiple times already.
The Chicken
In the evening, we went by car to the grocery store to stock up on some provisions, including something for dinner. I found the mobile phone shop too where I bought a couple Sim cards to keep us connected. It was a late, light supper back at the house. We have started hatching plans for our first ride in the morning. It’s going to be another hot day so an early start is what we are aiming for. Stay tuned to see what really happens.
Day 2: To Fairport and back 50km
Sunday, August 7th
Sunny, hot and humid with a west wind. 33C
We did get an early start this morning and were pedaling down the driveway at 8:30am. As I mentioned, the bike trail is very close to our place and within minutes we were on it. There was a lot of lovely shade to be had after we crossed over the pedestrian bridge to the University of Rochester campus and were riding through Genesse Valley Park. We took a left turn at the Erie Canal and followed the trail east along the north bank.
Photo by Duncan
It was quite busy on the trail between Rochester and Pittsford and being a beautiful Sunday, that was no surprise. We stopped frequently to hydrate, pee, sightsee and sometimes for no apparent reason at all. After arriving in Fairport and poking around for a bit we hopped back on the bikes and rode back to Pittsford for lunch.
Photo by Duncan
At Alladin’s it was busy but we were able to get a table for 6 on the second floor patio overlooking the canal. It was nice to rest and refuel but all of us ate too much which is entirely too easy to do in restaurants with delicious food.
Photo by Duncan
The final leg back after lunch was tough. The humidity was oppressive and the wind was against us. Shade was really the only respite from the heat, aside from air conditioning, which we wallowed in at the REI store just off the trail. We spent the better part of an hour in the outdoor goods store, slowly browsing while our body temperatures stabilized. When we made the last push back to our place we were all tired and hot. We have never been so grateful for air conditioning. For dinner we ordered pizza in and devoured most of it. After dinner, we took a stroll to the chicken mural with a stop for ice cream from the corner store on the way back. Don went MIA but turned up eventually. As it turns out he got ice cream too.
Day 3: Through Rochester to Ontario Beach Park 35km
Monday, August 8
Sunny, hot and humid with an afternoon shower. 30C
Photo by Yvonne
For a change of pace we decided to ride through downtown Rochester all the way north to lake Ontario. Again, we picked up the trail just outside our door and started riding downstream alongside the Genesee River. After a mile or two of shady forested path we emerged into the city proper. The paved trail seamlessly traverses underneath bridges and bypasses intersections.
In no time we arrived at the abandoned subway station by the Broad Street Bridge. I don’t think any of us knew that Rochester even had a subway. In actual fact, it was a light rail system that operated from 1927 to 1956.
After that the navigating got a little trickier. The map showed trail on both sides of the river so the trouble would be choosing which route to take. The route we chose ended up having detours, bridge closed signs and some busy roads. We unknowingly bypassed High Falls and rode past the Genesee brewery before crossing back over the river on Driving Park Ave. From the bridge we could see the river way, way down below. From there we were in Maplewood Park and resumed following the trail. It took us through the park along the top of the gorge and then from end to end of Holy Sepulchre cemetery. At Turning Point Park we followed the trail down, down and down to the boardwalk where now the trail was literally right over the water.
Photos by Yvonne
The Genesee River starts to widen here and soon after that point there were boats in slips marking the marina and the channel to Lake Ontario. We stopped to refill our water bottles and take a break in the shade.
Photo by Duncan
Once the lake was in sight we beelined it to the beach. People were swimming, life guards were on duty and the water looked inviting. Glor, Yvonne, Wendy and I got changed into our swimsuits or at least took some of our clothes off and walked over the hot sand and into the cool water. The lake was surprisingly warm and also weedy and shallow. It was refreshing nonetheless and we floated around like corks until we were corralled back in to shore by the paddle-boarding lifeguard. After that it was off to lunch at the Pelicans Nest.
Photo by Don
It started to rain on our short ride to the restaurant and though initially we hurried to escape it, the rain shower was a welcome relief from the heat. It was another feast for lunch. It’s hard not to order everything on the menu and It’s equally hard to stop eating when there are still fries on your plate.
Photos by Duncan
After lunch, half of us decided to stay at the beach while the other half would ride back to pick up the van. Duncan, Wendy and I were the riders and Don, Glor and Yvonne were the beach combers. The rain had stopped by the time we maneuvered ourselves back onto our bikes. We decided to take a more direct route home so after we backtracked through Turning point park we cut through Holy Sepulchre cemetery onto Dewey Ave. We followed Dewey for the majority of the way back through the city. The scenery was interesting to say the least and we got a real sense of what the west side of Rochester was like – a lot less affluent. In the end, we rejoined the bike trail closer to our neighborhood and the rain started up again. We got a little wet but it was so hot out that it felt really nice.
Once we were back at home my Mom and I hopped in the van and drove back to the Port of Rochester where Don, Yvonne and Glor were relaxing with ice cream. We picked them up and drove back along Dewey so that they could see what they’d missed.
Tonight was movie night and we had a date with Elvis at 7 PM. All of us were still quite satiated from lunch so we just had light snacks for dinner while getting cleaned up to go out. The movie trailers were not received well by anyone, but everyone liked the film. After the show we dropped by Wegmans supermarket for supplies and then drove back to the house for bedtime snacks.
Day 4: Genesee River Trail and Erie Canalway Trail 25km
Tuesday, August 9
Humid and cloudy with sun. 24C
For our ride today we decided to go south along the Genesee Riverway Trail. We were now quite familiar with our neighborhood and how to get around on the bike trails so it was easy to find our way. From our place we rode south and crossed over the Erie Canal, following along the west Bank of the Genesee River. This was another tree-covered and paved trail that is well used by locals. At one point the trail splits with one route hugging the river and the other like an express lane a little farther from the water.
After about half an hour of riding the path concluded at busy road. According to our maps, the trail follows the road for awhile and eventually links up with a rail trail headed to Scottsville. We decided to turn around and try the Erie Canalway west. On the way back on the upper trail we passed by a firefighter training area complete with a burned out building and an airplane. When we got back to Genesee Valley Park we turned left at the Erie Canal and started riding west.
Photos by Duncan, bottom photo by Glor
The bike trails here are like little freeways for bikes and they are well signed and easy to navigate. We followed the trail for an hour or so before stopping for a snack. Seeing as we wanted to do some sightseeing in the afternoon we were aiming to be back at the house for lunch.
Our ride home was just as nice as the ride out and when we got back into familiar territory we stopped on one of the bridges to admire the intersection of the canal and the river.
Photos by Duncan
We had accumulated enough leftovers by this point to lay out an impressive buffet lunch. We huddled around the kitchen island dipping, slicing and snacking our way through the fare. Our plan for the afternoon was coming together.
After lunch we piled into the van and drove downtown to explore. One of the places we had missed seeing the day before was High Falls; one of three waterfalls in Rochester along the Genesee River. Located in the heart of downtown, the falls are the site and the impetus of Rochester’s early industrial development. The view from the Pont de Rennes pedestrian bridge is pretty impressive.
Photo by Duncan
I don’t think any of us were expecting a 96 foot waterfall in the middle of the city. We would have come across this on our ride the day before but construction, detours and perhaps lack of research had us obliviously pedaling past. As the packed patio at the Genesee Brewery can attest, High Falls is a very popular destination.
Pont de Rennes
Next on our list was Maplewood Park, another place we rolled through by bike on our way to the beach. Here there are steps and a trail down towards the riverbed. We hiked down the trail and along towards the Lower Falls. There is a bridge there, or more accurately the dam of a power station. It is closed to the public from 7am to 4pm and we would have crossed it yesterday on our ride but we were too early. Now we’d get to see what we had missed. It was around 3pm at this point and we arrived at the locked gate. While peering beyond, a worker emerged declaring that he’d be opening the gate in about 5 minutes. We waited patiently for that to happen and then were able to walk out over the dam.
Top: photo by Duncan
After awhile we hiked back up to Maplewood Park to view the rose garden. Don led an informal tour of hundred-odd varieties of roses while others retired to shady benches to relax. It was getting on in the day and we wanted to visit the local Tuesday market, so we drove back to our house.
The Westside Market was within walking distance, but we inadvertently missed a turn took the long way through the neighborhood. We got to the market in the end and everybody gravitated to to different booths. Baked goods, cheeses and fresh produce were immediate draws and the hot food items looked delicious. We had other plans for supper so we exercised our will power, but collectively we bought enough desserts for 3 days. At markets I have the tendency to get chatting. Noticing the rest of the group was ready to go, I had to be politely dragged away from a conversation, but not before getting a free sample of essential oils from Clover Meadow farms.
Photos by Duncan
Reconveening at the house we were all ready to eat. Tonight we were dining at Alladin’s again, but at their downtown location. It was a short drive across town to Monroe Avenue which as it turns out had many restaurants to choose from. We were so impressed by the food at Alladin’s in Pittsford that we couldn’t be swayed from trying it again. None of us were disappointed and we had a table on the second floor patio overlooking the street. Forget cycling, sightseeing is hard work. We cleaned our plates and passed on dessert knowing the abundance of baked goods that awaited us at home.
This being our last night in Rochester, we firmed up our plans for the next few days by booking our Air B&B in Niagara Falls. We’ll be sad to say goodbye to our spot on South Plymouth Ave, but our next accommodation looks pretty sweet.
Day 5: Rochester to Niagara Falls NY – by car
Wednesday, August 10
Warm and sunny. 27C
Check-out time was 11am but we were all packed up and ready to go by 10am. We didn’t want to arrive in Niagara Falls too early so we went to visit the George Eastman Museum, named after the founder of the Eastman Kodak company. It is the oldest museum dedicated to photography, and houses extensive film archives, an art gallery and the Dryden Theatre.
The museum is built around Eastman’s house which we also toured through, but unfortunately the gardens were under construction.
The neighbouring area is replete with grandiose homes, something we hadn’t seen during our stay on the west side of the city. When lunch time came we drove to nearby Cob Hill Park. We still had rather a lot of food with us and so we spread out an impressive array that even our table-neighbors were envious of.
Once we had eaten, refreshed and visited a local bakery we were ready for the drive to Niagara Falls. We traveled on the interstate so the route was nice and direct. We arrived within minutes of each other despite taking slightly different routes through the city.
All of us had been impressed with our house in Rochester, but our house in Niagara Falls was even nicer. In addition to having lots of room for sleeping, it had a front porch with furniture and a big dining room table to eat at; two things our place we lacking. This place was also conveniently located near the bike path that would take us to the Falls and downriver to the north. There was a nearby Tops grocery store that we promptly walked to and selected our suppers for the evening.
Having learned that there were nightly fire works by the Falls, we took our bikes out after dinner to scout a location to watch from. We found a great place about 5 minutes ride from our house. The fireworks were still a few hours away so we went back home and played ‘Reminiscing’ the board game for awhile. The sofa here was a lot more comfortable than at our previous place and it was hard to remove ourselves from it when it was time to go out again.
Photo by Duncan
We thought we had left enough time to get to our lookout over the Niagara River to view the pyrotechnic display, but by the time we got ready and actually departed on our bikes we could hear booming in the distance. Duncan had the brightest light so he led the way. We rode as quickly as we could in the dark, along an unlit trail, but when we arrived the last flare had already been flung into the sky. Oh well, we would try again tomorrow.
Day 6: Niagara Falls – The Great Gorge Railway Trail 34km
Thursday, August 11
Warm and Sunny. 25C
Today was our first full day in Niagara Falls and our last full day of the trip so we were all eager to do some more riding. The plan for the morning was to ride north alongside the river on the Great Gorge Railway Trail. Just steps from our rented house it was easy to get going on the trail after breakfast. It was another beautiful day for riding – not too hot – and the trail is paved. There were many gorgeous views of the Niagara River along the way including lookouts over the gorge.
Photo by Yvonne
We passed a few other people on bikes but we basically had the trail to ourselves. We stopped frequently along the way to enjoy the scenery and to take photos. We rode through Whirlpool Sate Park and Devil’s Hole State Park, both of which were a little busier with tourists. Continuing our ride north we passed by the dam at the New York Power Authority. Here our paved trail turned into a paved road, but without the traffic. It was wide enough for us to ride six abreast. Soon after we saw the dam on the Canadian side at the Niagara Falls Power Generating Plant. It was easy to believe that there was some dam envy at play.
Photo by Yvonne
We continued along and passed under the Lewiston-Queenston Bridge and it was around this point that we could see the fuzzy blue line of Lake Ontario in the distance. The trail sloped downward and we zoomed along, coasting all the way to the bottom. The Artpark State Park was at the foot of the escarpment and we rode through it to see the art? We didn’t find much art in the park, but there was an outdoor concert venue which looked like it would be a fun place for live music. We meandered through the park for awhile and then stopped to take a break. Here, the trail was temporarily closed while a scaling team practiced repelling down the rock face. This would be our turn-around point for our morning ride.
Photos by Duncan. Bottom right: Duncan setting the self-timer
Leaving the park we could see our bike trail snaking it’s way back up the escarpment alongside the Niagara Scenic Parkway. It hadn’t really occurred to us – or at least to me – that our entire ride so far today had been downhill. And what goes down, must pedal back up. It was just over a 2 kilometer climb back up the escarpment, but it was a gradual ascent and the view was a nice distraction. We reconvene at the top and I didn’t see anyone out of breath. On our way back we retraced our route but with fewer scenic stops. We did stop at Whirlpool State Park where we got off the bikes and walked to the lookout over the whirlpool. We probably spent half an hour just watching. The power of the water at the bottom of the gorge is simply mesmerizing, as are the jet boats, helicopters and aero cars (gondolas).
Photos by Duncan
From Whirlpool State Park it took us 10 minutes to ride back to our place and it was just approaching noon. After lunch Glor, Yvonne, Wendy and I took a drive to the ALDI for a little shopping. ALDI is what I would call a discount grocery store and it has an intriguing section called ‘Here today, gone tomorrow’. The last time my Mom and I were in New York State we had to cross the border back into Canada by bike. Our bags were already full and we weren’t able to stock up on any fun food items. This time would be different! I found a few different salad dressings and some cookies, none of which can be found in Canada. Perhaps I’m making this sound more exciting than it is, but the way I see it, it is all part of exploring another culture.
After a few hours being off of our bikes it was time for our afternoon ride to The Falls. This time we rode south from our house along the trail. We rode past the Aquarium and the Disovery Centre. There were still very few people around, but as we approached and then rode under the Rainbow Bridge it got very congested with pedestrians all of a sudden. We opted for riding on the road at this point and made our way to Bridge that would take us to Goat Island. The hordes of people increased. Once on the Island we decided to just park our bikes and walk to see some of the sights. Our first stop was Luna Island- accessible by foot – with a great view over the precipice and Bridal Veil Falls. There was mist in the air, enough to cool us off, but when the wind whipped a certain way it threatened to soak us.
Photo by Duncan
From there we walked through the heart of the tourist scene past the Nikola Tesla Monument, the line up for the Cave of the Winds and finally the gardens. I think we may have missed the gardens but according to the map we walked right by them. Even busier still was Terrapin Point, which overlooks Horseshoe Falls. The place was bustling with eager onlookers, all vieing for openings along the rail for that perfect selfiie. Again, the power of the water and of gravity is truly something to behold. The fact that something as simple as falling water can captivate thousands of people daily, year after year is frankly remarkable.
Top: Photo by a nice tourist. Bottom: Photos by Duncan
Eventually we made our way back to our bikes before continuing on to Three Sisters Island. This is a series of 3 tiny islands upstream from the falls, connected by a foot bridge to Goat Island. There were a few other people there, but the further we got from the falls the less busy it was. Continuing our counter-clockwise circumnavigation of Goat Island we were now able to ride on the path again. We slowly made our way around the little island and back onto the mainland. At Prospect Point we stopped yet again, for one more look at the falls. From there we could see across the river to Luna Island and all the little people getting wet.
Photos by Duncan
Finally it was time to make our way back to the house. After a short trek through the downtown we picked up the bike trail and were back home in 5 minutes. I think we were all thankful for our morning ride, because as fun as the afternoon was, it wasn’t much of a ride. Indian food was on the menu tonight and after finding a restaurant that was actually in the United States of America, and open, we placed our order. Glor and Yvonne went to pick it up while I whipped up a salad and within no time the feast was on. We sat around the dining room table but it was surprisingly quiet because we were all enjoying the food.
Photos by Duncan
The evening was spent relaxing, sitting on the porch and watching the local skunks slink around. At 9:30 some of us reprised our attempt to see the fireworks. We arrived to the viewing spot 20 minutes early, but that just heightened the anticipation. Right on cue, actually a couple minutes early, we saw the sparks and heard the booms. After the display smoke hung in the air and the river was suddenly quiet. We know they do this every night here at the Falls, but for us it was still pretty special.
Day 7: Heading Home
Friday, August 12
Sunny and warm. 25C
Today was basically a travel day so after having breakfast and organizing we loaded the bikes onto our respective vehicles and headed for the border. Don, Wendy and Duncan were in one car and Glor, Yvonne and myself were in the other. Our crossing at the Lewiston-Queenston Bridge was relatively uneventful. When asked if we had anything to declare I didn’t hesitate to say no. What I really wanted to declare was that we had a great time together and that maybe we are all a little sad that our trip over. Until next time.
After arriving in Fort Erie yesterday, we had one last night to enjoy the confined comforts of a motel. It was a great way to unwind after a busy few weeks. Despite spending 3 days in New York City, mostly off of our bikes, we are exhausted. Our legs are sore – in a good way – and our minds are recuperating from the sight-seeing extravaganza of the Big Apple.
Sunday morning we arranged for my Dad to pick us up. It felt strange being packed and ready, but with nowhere to ride to. He arrived on schedule despite a minor hiccup navigating the border control zone. We were able to follow his progress with the help of a friendly, little tracking app. Once he found us, we loaded the bikes onto the bike rack and set off on the highway. We had a picnic in the car with some of our residual food and were back in Ajax by 2pm. After being affectionately mauled by Riley the dog, we got our first – in person – look at the storm damage. After settling in, we had a celebratory dinner and spent the evening watching hockey with our feet up.
These trips are often a little longer for me because I leave my place in Kitchener to meet up beforehand. And even though my parent’s place does feel like home, I still have to pack up one final time to get home, home.
On Monday morning I took a walk down the street from my parent’s house to the beach on Lake Ontario. I used to relish the idea of looking out to the horizon there and imagining it as the edge of the world. Or at least the edge of my world. You can’t see across the lake so it’s perfect for spacious contemplation. Now, in my mind when I look across, I can see places and a landscape I’d never really thought of before. Names like Weedsport and Medina. Eagle Harbor and Albion. I can picture the Erie Canal snaking along just south of the lake. Rochester, Syracuse and Albany. All of those places, and people, cars and grocery stores have shattered the illusion I held so dear. This trip has thoroughly changed how I see the world. And ultimately, isn’t that why people travel in the first place?
I admit that beforehand I was a little apprehensive about traveling in America. I couldn’t exactly say why, but guns, COVID, Trumpism and Yankee fans were a few of the notions I was ruminating about. For the record, I only saw guns in the possession of police, we didn’t catch COVID (despite sometimes being the only ones with masks on), the Trump lawn signs didn’t bite and the Yankees baseball team never came up in conversation. In fact, pretty much every person we talked to was really nice, helpful and friendly. Spending time in New York State has completely, and at least temporarily, changed the way I perceive our closest neighbour to the south. As a matter of fact, we have already started talking about going back, perhaps as early as the fall.
I would like to officially thank our support staff for all of their help to make this trip possible. Thanks to my Dad, who drove us to Niagara Falls and picked us up in Fort Erie. To Joanne, who offered to water my house plants and collect my mail (the hoya is in full bloom, again), and to Russell, my neighbor at the community garden, who tended to my tomatoes and other seedlings while we were away. Also, thanks to everyone who followed along and read our daily reports. I started keeping this blog as a way to remember the minutiae of the day-to-day experiences, but it’s nice to know there is an audience that enjoys reading about it too.
Day 20: Utica to Buffalo International Airport (BUF) by car. BUF to Fort Erie, Ontario 21km by bike.
Saturday, June 4th
Sunny and cool with a W wind. 17 C
Riding in Buffalo
Today was just about the final leg of our Spring bike trip. Leaving from Utica, we needed to get the rental car to the Buffalo International Airport – just over 200 miles. We stopped for breakfast in Seneca Falls near the Finger Lakes and got to the airport just after noon. Once there we loaded up the bikes with our bags once again, and after a quick pit stop in the arrivals lounge, we started to ride. It took over 2 hours to get to the Peace Bridge, but we did make a few stops along the way. We stopped at a grocery store to buy some cheese to go with our lunch. We stopped at a dollar store to stock up on greeting cards – they are quite inexpensive in the U.S. We also stopped twice to eat all the fruits and vegetables that we couldn’t take over the border.
The Peace Bridge
Despite the headwind and having to ride on the road, the cycling was pretty good. We stopped one last time at a conveniently placed port-a-potty, and to get our documents in order. We walked our bikes most of the way across the Peace Bridge to enjoy the view. After a bit of a wait lined up with the autos, we were waved to the front of the line by a very nice Border Guard. We didn’t have far to go in Fort Erie to find our motel for the night and the grocery store. It’s nice to be back in Canada, but it is still sinking in
Day 19: Leaving New York (20km around Central Park by bike) Manhattan to Utica by car
Friday, June 3rd
Sunny and warm. 24 C
There were two things left on our checklist today and we accomplished them both. The first was to rent e-bikes, and ride around Central Park. We had some technical difficulties initially, but were able to overcome them to get the bikes we wanted. It was a 20km loop around the perimeter of the park, with all wheeled devices going in a counter clockwise direction. We really got a sense of how big the park truly is. What I found surprising was the elevation within the park, there are some real hills.
Wendy’s newest bike
The second item left on our list was to get some street food. After checking out of our hotel at noon, we rode our bikes to the car rental place, which was only a block away. On the way we stopped for a chicken shawarma platter to take with us on the road.
Lunch for the road
Having arranged the car rental ahead of time, it was smooth sailing. We loaded the bikes and our bags into the car and we were on our way. Driving in Manhattan is actually more difficult than riding a bike or walking in the city. As a driver you have to watch out for everything, from every direction. The key is to go slow, look twice and be ready to honk.
Our ride home
Once we got out of the city it was quite relaxing to sit back and drive. We are taking the car to the Buffalo airport and from there we will ride our bikes to the Peace Bridge, and cross over to Fort Erie. We’ve got a little more sight-seeing to do on the way so stay tuned.
Day 18: In and around New York City 24km (by bike)
Thursday, June 2nd
Mostly cloudy with an afternoon shower. 25 C
Today, we got back on our bikes. We officially completed our journey by cycling around the tip of Manhattan. From our hotel we rode east to the United Nations building and then followed the East River Trailway to Battery Park.
Morning ride – East River to the Hudson
We posed for the photo – this time with bikes – that we always pictured. Riding our bikes right to the tip of Manhattan, with the Statue of Liberty in the distance.
The Finish Line – Battery Park
In the afternoon we took another bus tour on the double-decker, this time through uptown and Harlem. Again, it was interesting, but it got hot when the sun came out, and the fumes from the bus were suffocating. Then the traffic snarled and heavy rain looked imminent. We got off early and walked back, getting to the hotel just as the skies opened up.
After dinner, despite just wanting to stay in bed (yes, we eat dinner in bed), we took the subway to explore the High Line and the Vessel at the Hudson Yards. On the way back we stopped to take a look at Grand Central Station. Sight-seeing is exhausting.
I was up late last night writing the blog post. I wanted to get it down while it was still fresh in my mind. I can feel it already, the sensory overload that is New York, tends to overwrite memories really quickly.
Both of us woke up just after 6am for no particular reason. I guess we were excited to be in New York, and thrilled to be finished our ride. We took a short walk through Central Park, stopping for bananas at the Dakota where John and Yoko had their apartment.
The Dakota and Central Park
We had our real breakfast back in our room before heading out on the double decker sight-seeing bus. We hopped off in Lower Manhattan and made our way to the Seaport. We ate pizza for an early lunch and then walked under the Brooklyn and Manhattan Bridges to Pier 35 for the Statue of Liberty cruise.
The Bridges, FDR Drive
It was fun being out on the water and getting to sit and rest for an hour was good too. The tour was informative and of course, offered a different perspective of Manhattan and the other boroughs.
Liberty Cruise The Tourists
After the cruise we hopped back on the bus, riding it to Battery Park. From there we walked up to the World Trade Centre site. The memorial is a striking and solemn tribute to the event that forever changed New York.
Then we found a grocery store to pick up some supplies prior to hopping on the bus again. We rode the rest of the loop up the west side and hopped off near our hotel. We had one last thing to pick up for dinner and made it back to our hotel just as it started to rain. We prepared a delicious dinner in our room, and in true tourist fashion, we are watching the New York Rangers hockey game on TV. We have ample snacks and with the sounds of the city leaking in through our open window, it really feels like we are here.
Day 16: (Peekskill to Tarrytown by train) Tarry Town to Manhattan 55km
Tuesday, May 31
Sunny and super hot. Light N wind. 36 C
Today was finally the day we would get to New York City. Up until last night, our exact plan was still being established. What we ultimately decided is as follows. Retracing our route from yesterday, we caught the train in Peekskill back to Tarrytown. We got to the station early and had to wait around to catch the first non-rush-hour train heading south. It was hot out already by 8am, but the breeze coming off the Hudson was refreshing. Boarding the train was easy again, although the train car was different so we had to make our bikes fit as best we could. The first ticket checker didn’t seem to mind that we were blocking the aisle a little bit, but the second one did not approve. He was less than helpful to say the least. After one station stop we had to switch trains anyway, and while exiting the train a friendly rider helped to hold the door for us while ticket-man priggishly observed. Our sense of ease on the train was starting to wane. The next train – more of a milk run – would get us to Tarry Town but was coming in on a different track. So after some consultation we hauled our bikes into the elevator, down the hall to the other elevator to track number 2. As it turns out we did this needlessly because the train doors opened on both sides of the car, precisely where we had been standing. This time we stowed our bikes more efficiently and the next stop was Tarrytown.
Peekskill to Tarrytown by train
It was getting hotter. I don’t think I mentioned in yesterday’s post that the 4km ride from the trailhead in Tarrytown to the train station was extremely downhill. It was thrilling at the time, and at that point, our plan didn’t involve going back there. However, this morning we had decided to continue riding from where we’d left off. This meant starting our ride with a 4km serious climb. We knew this, and we were dreading it. We actually walked most of it, and by walking, I mean pushing our fully loaded bikes up steep streets in sweltering heat. It was an intense workout for some different muscle groups. When we reached the plateau above the town, we found the trail and stopped at the first shady bench we came to. After a little more breakfast and a little chat with some curious passersby, we were ready to proceed.
The main reason we had been hesitant to ride from Tarrytown, was having to overcome the hill in town. The main reason we wanted to keep riding into the city from Tarrytown, was that the trail is amazing. The North County Trailway is mostly shady, mainly downhill and for the most part utterly devoid of traffic. Picking up from where we’d left off, we hopped on the bikes and practically coasted along. I kept waiting for the oasis of green to vanish, leaving urban blight in its place, but mile after mile we were riding through the woods. Sometimes, the woods were only twenty feet deep on either side of the trail but the illusion was a good one.
The trailway twines along the Saw Mill River and it’s namesake Parkway which is a sizzling cacaphony of cars and trucks. Occasionally the soothing sounds of the former were drowned out by the cranky din of the latter. Every now and then we’d have to cross a road or pass through some light industrial or commercial development, but the park-like setting endured. After 15 miles we arrived in Yonkers. I figured that around the next bend the city would finally reveal itself. Redmond Park led to Tibbets Brook Park which connected to Van Cortlandt Park in the Bronx. It wasn’t until we rode out the south side of the the park that it really felt like we were in the city. But after that point, it happened fast.
Slowly shifting to city
Now we were on streets, riding underneath screeching subways, amidst the flow of a thousand cars and trucks. Bike routes needed to be followed, bridges to be found, and shady spots frequently sought out to stop and recalibrate in. Bit by bit we pressed on. We ended up walking over the Broadway Bridge which was nice, because we could take it all in without having to focus on the road and staying alive. Crossing over the Harlem River onto Manhattan Island was an achievement, something we’ve been picturing doing for awhile now. Next, we found our way to the Hudson River Greenway – the bike path that circumnavigates most of the island. It was really astounding seeing the megacity take shape, and just after we passed under the George Washington Bridge, we saw the skyline as proof.
Manhattan Island
By this time we were getting tired. It was so hot in the sun, and we had stopped for food and water countless times. We just wanted to get to our hotel, get off of our bikes, and rest where it was cool. But, we still had a little ways to go. Riding down the west side of the island, we finally had our chance to enter the city proper at 95th Street. We headed straight for Central Park. From there we rode south through the park, getting more relieved the closer we got to our destination. Our hotel – The Manhattan – is just south of Central Park near Times Square. After exiting the park and a few blocks of city streets, we had made it. Sweaty and smiling, we wheeled into the lobby at 4pm and checked in without any fuss. We took a few minutes to unpack before going for a stroll to the nearest grocery store.
Central Park to 7th Ave
After dinner when all we wanted to do was rest, we went out and took an evening double decker bus tour. We figured we’d have time to rest later. We are planning a day off from riding tomorrow, but our plans have been known to change.
Day 15: Brewster to Tarry Town 67km (Tarry Town to Peekskill by train)
Monday, May 30 (Memorial Day)
Sunny and hot with next to no wind. 30 C
After rediscovering the joys of riding on rail-trails yesterday, we were keen to continue on the trail south today. Our maps indicated that there would be some significant elevation changes throughout the day which is not normally typical of rail-trails. Leaving Heidi’s Inn, it was a 4 mile ride back into Brewster to pick up where we left off yesterday. Branching off of the Maybrook Trail, our route was now called The Putnam Trailway. This former rail line was a commuter line running between Brewster and the Bronx.
Bridges and tunnels
The trail started climbing almost immediately. Steeper than most rail trails, but still a lot more gradual than any of the roads we saw in the vicinity. The scenery was lush and green. I’m still beside myself with the mature trees that line the trails throughout the Hudson Valley. We climbed for about 10 miles until we reached Mahopac, then the trail tilted in our favour. We were able to coast down the other side of the pass for about 3 miles. The slope was again surrounded by mature deciduous forest. The trail was busy again today with people, but in a break between groups I saw a what looked like a large cat cross the trail in front of me. Coasting past the woods where it slunk to, I peered into trees. To my astonishment, I saw a lynx staring back at me.
So much green
We loved the trail so much that we rode further than we were supposed to. Originally we had planned to get off in Mahopac and then take Hwy 6, the road-route to Peekskill. Mid-morning we changed our plan. We decided to ride trail all the way to Tarry Town where we would catch the Metro North commuter trail back up to Peekskill. In a nutshell, that is what we did.
The whole train trip process was relatively easy and straightforward. When we got off in Peekskill our hotel was less than a mile away, although it was up a steep hill so we walked the bikes. Checking in, we were covered in sweat, again. Our room has the best view of the entire place. We’re not sure how that was arranged, but we a certainly enjoying it.
Our stay at the Greener Oaks was very nice and we accomplished what we needed to do, which was to rest. Today, we wondered how our legs would feel after they started pedaling again, but once they were warmed up, they felt fine. It was a mile ride back into Hyde Park from our place and then another 4 miles south to Poughkeepsie where we were to pick up the trail. Along the way we passed FDR’s place. We wanted to get a good start on our ride so we didn’t go in, but I think it wasn’t open yet anyway. The road was generally downhill into Poughkeepsie, which was great, and we also passed by the Culinary institute of America and Marist College.
The Greener Oak, FDR’s home and Hwy to Poughkeepsie
We picked up the trail at the base of the pedestrian bridge over the Hudson River and it was busy. The weather was nice and being Memorial Day Weekend, it was not surprising to see many people out biking, walking and running. The Dutchess Railtrail (DRT) is 13 miles long, starting in Poughkeepsie and terminating in Hopewell Junction. There the path continues as the Maybrook Trailway to Brewster – another 21 miles – and beyond to Danbury, Connecticut. It was so nice to be back on a Railtrail, with its gentle gradients. The first half of our ride today – to Hopewell Junction – was uphill, but it was spread out evenly over miles. The latter half of our ride was downhill, again spread out over a distance, not one steep drop. Similar to the train engines that used to traverse the same route, our legs are little motors that appreciate a steady, predictable rhythm.
A bit of shade
In the afternoon we crossed paths with 4 other bikers from New York who were riding electric assisted bikes. We shared a rest stop together in the shade and got to chatting. They were curious about what we were up to and likewise, us about them. We spent 20 minutes telling stories and swapping facts. It was a really great interaction and we felt a little more energetic afterwards from it. The final few miles into Brewster were downhill as advertised and we coasted along through sun-dappled shade.
Trail sights
Our easy descent into Brewster quickly transitioned to heavy hill climbs once we left the trail for the road. We knew it was coming, but sometimes ignorance is bliss. We prevailed over the last few hills and even had some company as a fellow cyclist and I got chatting riding side by side up one of the climbs. Then, our motel appeared and we disappeared into it. We’d already acquired all the food we needed so it was time to relax.
Cloudy and cool with some rain and a heavy downpour in the afternoon. 21 C
So, yesterday we were starting to rethink riding the hilly roads down the valley. They are rideable and there is a bike route, however we don’t subscribe to the suffering ethos of road bike racing. We plan on enjoying ourselves and enjoying the adventure of the trip. With that being said, while walking to Walmart yesterday, we started to entertain any and all ideas of how to get farther along without having to ride another grueling course of river valley hills.
We talked about taking a boat, renting a car and I downloaded Uber for the first time. Car rental places were closing soon, closed for the Memorial Day weekend and most likely without cars for hire. Leaving Walmart I tried to hail an Uber, but instead of waiting around for 20 minutes we decided to walk the 40 minutes back to our motel. That was when fate curiously intervened. A car went by and pulled into a parking space directly in front of us. The side of the car was marked with ‘Catskill Car Service” and it looked like a courtesy car for an auto dealership. We decided to inquire and hovered patiently nearby while the driver readied herself to exit the vehicle. Once she did, we pounced. Politely I asked what exactly the car service was and she replied that it was basically like a taxi. The lightbulbs went off simultaneously in our minds. I asked if they do out of town trips and she simply replied that they do. I asked if we could get a ride to Hyde Park in the morning and she said yes. Our eyes were wide with excitement and illuminated by hope. After conferring with the boss, who coincidentally also just pulled in to park, we were quoted a price. The only information required from us was: 10am at Peloke’s motel and room #4. And just like that our fortunes changed. We’d be fast tracking our trip by one day, but more importantly we’d be skipping another tough hill-filled ride. And for good measure, we asked for a lift to the motel. No problem. For 5 bucks flat-rate we were back in time for supper.After dinner we were at ease and eagerly awaiting an overdue day of rest.
Downtown Catskill
So today, we woke up and packed our bags before taking a stroll along the main Street in downtown Catskill. There were a lot of interesting looking shops to peer into, but because it was still early, everything was closed. We ate our breakfast back in the room and then got the bikes ready to be stowed – hopefully effortlessly – into a car. We were expecting a ‘Tahoe’ to be precise, but you don’t want the driver second guessing the size of their vehicle. We’ve done this before and we like to look the part. At 10:01am the Tahoe arrived and we slipped the bikes in the back like pancakes on a plate. Put the bags in too and then ourselves and sat back to enjoy the ride. We had a great conversation over the hour-long drive to Hyde Park and when we arrived we asked to be dropped off at the Laundromat.
Waiting for the TahoeWaiting for the wash
Once we were unloaded from the Tahoe we loaded our wash into a machine and then put our bikes back in order. When the wash was done we packed the clean, still-wet clothes into our bags and made our way to The Greener Oaks where we’d be spending the night. It was a short ride – less than a mile – but of course it was hilly. The road was narrow and twisty and wet and busy. Not that much fun and it was starting to rain.
The room is in a house, in a lovely treed area on a quiet street. Our host met us at the door, gave us a tour and made us feel immediately at home. While chatting we mentioned that we might be going out to see FDR’s home and stopping by the Stop & Save for groceries. Then she offered to take us to the store, since she was going there too. We couldn’t refuse. We had been thinking of riding to the store and the historic site, but with the questionable weather we balked. So all three of us piled into her car and away we went. We did see FDR’s place as we drove past and both it and the store were a little further than we thought. It was a big store and we were able to find just about everything we wanted. After checking out we met our host out front of the store in the midst of a torrential rainstorm. Were we ever thankful that we weren’t out there riding around on our bikes. It was then that we finally realized that today was truly a rest day and that we would not be going anywhere else.
Back in our room we hung up our wet laundry wherever we could and we whipped together a nice hot lunch with squash, asparagus and our leftover chicken. We’ve had our feet up for the remainder of the day and have been planning our arrival in New York City. We do plan on actually biking again, just not today.
Today was our first day riding exclusively on roads and it was eye-opening. Cycling along the canal we were able to admire all of the majestic rolling hills from a distance. Today we had front row seats. Obviously the downs are a lot easier than the ups, but with narrow shoulders, traffic, road detritus and sightseeing thrown into the mix, even the descents can be trying in their own way. Clearly, the ups are a lot of work and usually only rewarding when you reach the top, but when the ups keep going up, they too get tiring. This is especially true when the hills keep repeating themselves, over and over again.
At the end of the day you really only remember the good parts. There is a certain sense of accomplishment, even satisfaction, with having laboured so hard to made it to your destination, but you can never accurately recall the toil like it was in the moment. This is where memories can be deceiving and why you are tempted to or even compelled to repeat the same process again day after day. Well, our eyes are wide open and we are scratching our heads, trying to come up with a way not to repeat the grind that was today’s ride.
The good parts… Leaving Rensselaer we were already elevated from the river so our first vertical action was down. The steep hill caught us by surprise and both of us, later, admitted to applying the brakes instead of letting gravity take control. That began the barrage of hills. We did pass some historical places along the way including a spot where Henry Hudson landed near Kinderhook and 2 really old cemeteries where we stopped to rest.
Break time
Connecting Hudson and Catskill is The Rip Van Winkle Bridge. It features the Hudson River Skywalk, which is actually just the sidewalk where pedestrians can cross the bridge. It does provide great views of the river valley, the Catskill Mountains and Olana the historic site of Frederic Church’s estate.
From the Rip Van Winkle Bridge – Hudson Skywalk
Once we arrived at our motel in Catskill we pulled ourselves together and went for a walk. We ended up at the far end of town where Walmart lives. After doing our shopping, a chance encounter presented us with the ‘plan B’ we’d been looking for. Stay tuned for more details..
Instead of back tracking yesterday’s route to where we left the trail, we decided to take a more direct route along the highway to rejoin the Canalway trail a mile out of town. It was a lovely downhill ride out of Amsterdam and when we reached the bottom near the canal, we saw our trail on the other side of the ditch. A quick Portage and we were back riding on the paved trail.
I felt that the theme of the day started out very industrial with a lot of beautifully stark infrastructure. Actually, the day started out with us buying bananas and granola bars for breakfast from the local convenience store and the police being summoned to our motel for a domestic dispute, but I didn’t take any pictures of that.
Then I thought that something more uplifting, thematically, might be in order, so I started paying attention to all of the various flowers in bloom along the trail. They were everywhere and I had to limit myself to only photographing them when we were stopped for a break.
The riding along the trail today was amazing. The path seems like it was paved yesterday and yet it runs through deep woods a lot of the time, so it seems like its been there for decades. Not all of the trail follows the route of the original towpath, when they used horses and mules to pull barges along the canal, and some of the newer sections have hills. We crested one such hill by the General Electric Global Research Centre and at the summit, were rewarded with a great view of the Mohawk River and the surrounding area.
The trail was in impeccable condition right up until we saw the dreaded “Trail Closed” sign in Cohoes. Of course, we pedaled around the sign and carried on and the trail got rough. Like, really rough. I scouted ahead on foot, through a tunnel, to take a look beyond. There was no getting past this blockage. The trail looked like it was being prepared for re-paving in this particular section and there had been some serious tree removal. All of the trunks and branches of the felled trees were piled entirely on and along the surface of the trail. The heavy machinery had torn up the old asphalt sufficiently enough to make the trail officially unridable. We conceeded defeat and finally aquiesced to the detour. Within half a mile we were back on the trail, but ready for a another break.
The rest of our ride along the Mohawk River – which is part of the Erie Canal – was down hill. The Mohawk flows into the Hudson River and we were getting close. In time, we came to an Empire State Trail sign that offered us a choice: north or south. This is what we’d been waiting for. We turned right – south – toward New York City and right into the gusting wind. We said goodbye to our tree-covered trail and knew that the last few miles today would be tough.
Slowly but surely and snack by snack, we rode on. Our first glimpse of the Hudson showed whitecaps and because of the wind, the river appeared to be flowing in the opposite direction. Inching ever closer to Albany we found ourselves riding on the road through Watervliet. Then we had a dedicated bike lane. Then we were back in the woods riding along the Hudson.
By this time it was 5pm and we were still 10 miles from our destination Rensselaer. With Albany in sight, we finally came upon the Dunn Memorial Bridge. Crossing this bridge would take us over the Hudson and into Rensselaer. So up and over we went and down the other side. We got a great view of Albany and the cool, green bike path we had ridden on.
Based on our prior scouting we knew that there was an ALDI grocery store en route to our motel, so we stopped on the way to stock up. The final mile was uphill, but we managed to plod along with our now overstuffed bags. We checked in at 6 and promptly sat down to eat. Our evenings are usually spent doing the same things. Putting our feet up. Catching up with people. Writing journals and blogs. Showers. Planning ahead. Snacking and inevitability sleeping.
The trouble with having such a nice room with lots of big windows is that it gets bright quite early. We both woke up before 7 to our lovely view across the river. We even went for a short walk to see where we would be leaving by bike.
Breakfast banana
Most of our adventure today happened in the first 5km. While eating our bananas overlooking the canal I realized I had left my travel mug and the tea that was in it back in the hotel room. So I zipped back by bike and raced up to the third floor to fetch it. Yes they had found it and to check the kitchen. Yes it was being washed in the sink by the staff. Relief! Back down to street level, on the bike and over the bridge. From the hotel we rode along Moss Island – between the canal and the river – to Lock 17. Crossing the lock was no problem, but then we had to lower our bikes down a long flight of steel steps. That led to a switchback ramp that took us back up to trail level. It was there that we saw the dreaded Trail Closed sign. Fresh asphalt had been layed recently and the blacktop was basically pristine. I was ready to turn back, but my mom doesn’t do detours unless absolutely necessary. We proceeded with caution. Around each bend fully expecting to arrive upon the road crew and have to explain either our illiteracy, our delinquency or both. We didn’t need to because we made it to the next road crossing uninterrupted. However, the next section of trail paving looked like an active work site so we did follow the detour this time. Unfortunately it took us up over a big hill that wound it’s way through a residential area before cresting and descending the other side. When we picked up the trail again the work crew was behind us and our legs were warned up for the day.
The rest of the day went by relatively fast. We tried something different today which was to stop every 10km for a break. Sometimes for food, but sometimes just to get off the bikes and stretch for a minute. It occurred to us that we had adopted this strategy on past bike trips. Now I remember why, because it works. It’s nice just mentally to reach that goal and rest for a minute and then ride for another half an our or so.
When we arrived in Amsterdam we realized that everything we need is up. Following the canal, we are usually at the low point – topographically speaking – of the area. The directions to our motel didn’t specifically mention that we’d be riding up steep hills, but we probably should have seen that coming. At the end of our day’s ride the last thing we want to do is climb hills. After climbing said hills, the last thing you want to do is ride back down them and across town and up the other side to go shopping, only to do the whole process again in reverse. So we stayed put in our our room, ordered spaghetti and meatballs for dinner from a local restaurant, and had it delivered. We don’t walk to grocery stores every day! Our room tonight is sort of like the back-to-basics version of a motel room. It seems more noticeable after yesterday’s boutiquey upgrade, but nonetheless, it is a place to put our feet up for the night.
Despite being unable to open the windows in our room for fresh air, we awoke to a nice cool draft in the morning. Probably safer than a screen door, we give full marks for ventilation at the Relax Inn even when the door is closed.
Morning sunlight creeping in
Both of us were feeling our legs today and although we didn’t want to take a day off, we did enjoy our breaks today. The wind was blowing from the east, lightly at first but strengthening as the day wore on. The trail conditions changed too. What started as two dirt tracks transitioned to stone dust and then to asphalt, in theory, making it easier to pedal.
Another rest stopTrail conditions
We had a stretch of highway riding today between Utica and Herkimer. The shoulders are wide and paved and the road wasn’t that busy, but there is something about riding next to traffic that is extra draining. That, combined with the wind in our face, left us huffing and hungry before lunch. A quick stop at a farm market picked up our spirits and we spotted a shady place to have a picnic. It was the west-facing side of a sports complex, in the middle of a field.
Lunch time
After lunch we put our heads down and pedaled our little legs as much as we could. Mile by mile we got closer to Herkimer. When we did, we found our way to the trail head and stopped for another breather.
Catching our breath
The last 7 miles took us to Little Falls. When we arrived we were swiftly upgraded to a bigger room in the neighbouring Inn with an elevator. The building is a fully restored mill from the 1800s. Both the Inn at Stone Mill and our room, overlook the town’s namesake. It was a well earned reward for us, particularly today after riding so hard to get there.
Down time
It was a short walk to the local grocery store where we did our thing and then made our way, as quickly as we could, back to our room to enjoy it. The only problem so far that we’ve found is that it’s too spacious. We have to walk all over the place to get at our stuff and we have things spread out everywhere!
After 7 days of riding, we are getting the hang of this again. Everything seems to be getting easier including packing and pedaling. The first few days on the road we were both figuring out how best to pack our stuff, especially the things we need easy access to like tissues, disinfectant wipes, masks, hand sanitizer and sunscreen. Packing our food is important too. Carrying enough so we can keep our strength up, but not too much that we are hauling extra weight. Raincoats near the top of the bags and with the warmer weather lately we don’t need to worry about gloves and extra layers. It’s nice to be getting into a rhythm.
Our room last night was certainly adequate but it sure was nice to move on this morning. We took our breakfast with us and made our way back to the Canalway trail heading east out of Syracuse. Starting in nearby DeWitt the trail is even paved. This section of the trail is also called the Old Erie Canal State Park and features several historic aqueducts and bridges. The asphalt lasted for a few miles before reverting back to crushed gravel. We didn’t want this trip to be too easy.
Getting into a good rhythm is also important for the actual cycling too. We try to time our breaks every hour or so, eating when necessary. Too much much food at once tends to make us lethargic. Too little and we are just weak. Finding the right equilibrium and the right type of foods is crucial to enjoying the ride. As I previously mentioned, we have been eating what constitutes breakfast, over two or three stops. Today we were practicing our picnic lunch. A nice selection of juicy fruits and vegetables, crackers and cheese of some kind and then something sweet to finish it off. Afternoon snacks we lean towards fruit, cookies and if necessary, chocolate.
We have also been testing out different variations with our equipment, specifically our bikes. Minor adjustments to the height of your bike seat throughout the ride can breathe new life into your legs when you thought there was none. Tweaks to the hand grips and handle bars can change your posture just enough to help relieve tired muscles. Sometimes the best distractions from the grind of riding come in the form of the scenery along the way.
This happed today when we saw a huge, dinner-plate-sized turtle. It was sitting on a log in the slimy muck of the old canal with 4 or 5 other turtles, each smaller than the one before it. When we stopped to look closer, only the big one was left on the log. This prompted us to pay more attention and we started seeing turtles everywhere. We were calling out our numerous sightings as we rode along, narrating our tour with facts and queries about turtle town. Neither of us had ever seen so many turtles before. There were easily a hundred of them in the span of a mile or two and that was while we were still paying some attention to what was in front of us.
The last few miles – which are usually the toughest – passed by effortlessly. The next thing we knew, we were in Rome. We worked our way through town, opting for side streets instead of the highway. When we spotted our motel it was a sad sight for sore eyes. The Relax Inn appeared to have bars on the windows and looked like a giant industrial shed with a broad red stripe the colour of fresh blood. The proprietor still needed to clean the room when we arrived to check in, as they had been extremely busy yesterday which seemed hard to believe. We agreed to wait, we were actually early anyway, so we walked to the grocery store to kill some time.
Actually better than it looksThe Relax Inn “Where you can feel at Home”
We knew there was an ALDI which was some kind of grocery store we hadn’t been to before, but we also saw another supermarket called Grand Union. So we went into Grand Union to look around and we were impressed. Good prices, great selection and a lot of interesting products we hadn’t seen before. We toured all the aisles, planning our dinner as we went. Then we left without buying anything and walked over to ALDI to investigate. It was very interesting too. Less selection, but cheaper prices on the things they did have. We picked up a few things there and then made our way back to Grand Union to finish up. We knew our room would be ready by now so we tentatively walked back to the motel unsure of what to expect beyond the room’s door.
Remarkably, the inside of the room was much nicer than the exterior, which is better than the other way round. It was clean, spacious and checked pretty much all of the boxes we want in a room. Within minutes we were unpacked, settled and getting our supper ready, which is all part of getting into a good rhythm.
Partly cloudy and warm. Rain later in the day. 26 C
Leaving Weedsport this morning we almost missed the start of the trail. We did a U-turn and pulled off the road, down a single dirt track into the woods. This was the most rustic we’ve seen the trail yet. The bumpy ride was a great way to be shaken awake as we hadn’t eaten breakfast yet. Then the trail was entirely covered over in freshly mowed grass. It was like pedaling along a green shag rug. Farther along the trail was blocked by a newly fallen tree. With just enough space to get by underneath, we pulled the bikes along the ground and through to the other side. Soon after, we arrived at a more well trodden part of the trail with park benches and a beautifully repurposed section of the old canal where we stopped to eat.
Repurposed canal site in Jordan
Near Camillus the trail was busy and there were a lot of people out walking and on bikes. Approaching the outskirts of Syracuse the trend continued. We knew that the Canalway Trail comes to an end at the outer limits of Syracuse because the old canal has been built over there. At that point we’d have to navigate by following the Empire State Trail signs and work our way across the city. When the trail ended I checked the map to confirm our location and we weren’t anywhere near where I thought we’d be. Plan B then came into effect, which was to just keep following the trail signs.
This worked really well for us and we got to see the New York State Fairgrounds – which were closed – and the bathrooms there, which were also closed. We followed the signs up and over an expressway and up a hill overlooking Lake Onondaga. We followed the signs down, around the lake and across the new pedestrian bridge at the lake outlet. We followed the signs onto the Onondaga Creekwalk which connects the lake to Armory Square in downtown Syracuse. We just kept following the signs and we slowly picked our way across the city, taking in the sights as we went. Pedaling out the east side of downtown took us up and eventually over a long hill. We passed Le Moyne College and got a fleeting view of the city before we gleefully coasted down the other side. We found our motel at the bottom of the hill and half an hour after checking in, the rain clouds finally caught up and it absolutely poured for an hour.
Restrooms closedLake Onondaga and the pedestrian bridge Creekwalk trail
The rain delayed our hike to the grocery store, but we were content to relax with our feet up and we spent some time planning our next few days. When the rain stopped, we were eager to go get our supper. Our destination was Tops, only a 20 minute walk, but just around the corner from us was a Trader Joe’s. Unsure of what exactly it was, we approached it cautiously. From a distance we spotted pineapple and melons outside on display. Our eyes widened! Neither of us knew it was a grocery store. It was enlightening and it was also really busy. It seemed like half of the people in the store were employees, most of them were replenishing things and tidying up. We found some interesting foods to try and the theme for dinner was salsa and chips. When we were done shopping it took 2 minutes to walk back to our room. Then we got cleaned up and proceeded to pig out!
We knew it was going to be hot today so our plan was to get an early start. We woke up at 6am and were out the door and on the bikes by 7:30. The canal was only steps away so we ate our bananas overlooking the placid water.
First breakfast
Some of our route today was on the road as some small segments of the trail haven’t been fully developed along the canal. Sometimes the maps are wrong, like when we found ourselves on a trail that didn’t even exist. At first, riding on the road was a nice change from the trail because the crushed gravel of the trail was sticking to our tires, showering us with gritty sprinkles and adhering to our sunscreened bodies. Although, after pedaling up a few hills, baking between the sun and the asphalt, we were missing the shade and the flatness of the canal way. As the heat built throughout the morning, we stopped often for shade, snacks and water.
Morning snack
Then we were back on the road to climb some more hills.
The road
And then back to the trail…
The trail
Our scouting report for Weedsport revealed that it was a pretty small place and we weren’t sure what the grocery situation would be like so we stopped in neighboring Port Byron at a small market store. We packed the food into our already full panniers by shuffling, swapping and stuffing items between ourselves and various bags. Now, the final 5 miles to Weedsport and we were back on the trail in the shade after another quick snack. When we arrived in town and found the Rodeway Inn we were excited to see the Super Fine Supermarket across the road and a laundromat next door! After unpacking and showering we went back out, strolling slowly in the blistering heat to do our wash and to see what else we could buy to eat. It might sound painful sometimes but it usually is pretty fun on these trips.
Down time
PS We heard about the wind damage in southern Ontario that afternoon and there were 2 big trees knocked down at my parent’s place. We were glad to hear that everyone there was ok and the damage is still being assessed.
Warm and muggy with a little midday rain shower. S wind. 28 C
36 bridges
The weather is getting warmer and today called for shorts and more importantly, sunscreen. It is a slimy inevitability at this time of year and because we are almost exclusively traveling east, we are at risk of getting tanned only on one side.
Sunscreen
We learned that today was the opening day for the navigation season on the Erie Canal. We had only seen one boat so far, but today was another story. Along with several rowing sculls, we saw river boat cruisers, fishing boats and kayaks. We also saw a lot of of other people out on the trail walking and biking, especially between Rochester and Fairport. There seemed to be an awful lot of bridges over the canal. In fact, I counted the ones we passed under today and there were 36.
Boats a’ plenty
Another highlight today was finding a Little Library in Perinton Park in Fairport where I left the copy of Isaac Asimov’s Foundation I’d been reading (sorry Joanne, I’ll get you another copy).
It was a really pleasant ride overall today, despite the humidity and the brief period of rain around noon. The canal way is so green and lush with vegetation, like at Swift’s Landing, that sometimes it feels like riding along an ancient riverbed.
We also had our first real detour of the trip near Pal-Mac Aqueduct County Park where we had to ride on hwy 31 for a bit. Thankfully hwy 31 is also NY State Bikeway #5 and there is a dedicated bike lane alongside the road.
Arriving in Newark, we could see our hotel from the trail which was a welcome sight. Also, Wegmans wasn’t nearly as far a walk as it was yesterday. It only took 20 minutes and gave us some time to plan our supper. Tonight was a cool salad day, with grilled chicken breast (not by us), cheese and crackers (jalapeno triscuit) and salted caramel iced cashew cream for dessert!
Rain overnight with misty showers until noon. Clearing through the day. W wind. 16 C
It rained overnight and we slept in a bit because it was so grey outside. As we were getting organized we decided to make a stop at the post office to send back some extra stuff we were carrying. Between the two of us we came up with 7 lbs of superfluous gear. Mostly clothing, but also some extra maps and electrical gadgetry. It wasn’t so much the additional weight of the stuff as the volume it took up in our bags. We were both feeling overstuffed, trying to jam things here and there. Now we have some extra space, for more stuff!
Our new rain jackets came in handy today as there was a lingering, drizzly mist hanging about as we made our way along the Canal way trail. The air was warm enough that it wasn’t such a big deal to get a little wet and the light west wind dried us off nicely once the rain clouds moved on. We saw our first fellow cyclists on the the trail today. 3 day trippers were riding together in the same direction as us and we saw a single rider as well as a couple riding west, fully loaded with bags. We have only seen one boat on the canal so far, but we learned today that the canal was only filled last week. Apparently the canal is mostly drained through the winter to minimize freezing damage to the banks.
Erie Canal way Trail
Most of the ride today seemed very rural. We passed through the small towns of Holley, Brockport, Adams Basin and Spencerport. Even approaching Rochester was deceiving because the trail was shrouded in trees and greenery. Every now and then we would surface from alongside the canal basin and see a few buildings, but then we would again descend into the forested trough. It wasn’t until the canal met the Genesee River that the general vibe morphed into an urban park feel. Then we noticed the University and more people about and an interstate whooshing nearby. We reemerged from the trail again at East Henrietta which was the street we needed to take to get to our hotel. A couple of blocks later along a busy road, but with bike lanes, we arrived at our destination.
Yesterday we ended up having chili and chicken soup for dinner and cranberry/orange and coconut/pineapple scones for desert, all of which came from Wild Flour Bakery, just a few steps from our motel. We went to the Tops grocery store too which was just as close, but left us severely underwhelmed.
So today we were determined to find a Wegmans to see if we could vanquish our grocery blues. A Google search revealed that the closest one was only 1.5 miles away. That is a bit of a hike, and we had already decided we would be hiking, not biking. Asking Google for directions to Wegmans ballooned the distance to 2.5 miles. I kept this fact to myself because my mom really wanted to go and I figured we walk fairly fast so it couldn’t actually take that long.
It was a nice walk and the sun was out by this point in the day. We passed by Monroe Community College and then some light industrial where the sidewalk vanished. I kept up the reassuring banter. We started to encounter box stores. Then more box stores. The usual suspects, supersized and specialized. Health food, junk food, fitness and medical centres. Google did keep us going in the right direction and we did find Wegmans eventually.
It was pretty impressive, especially compared to yesterday’s disappointing experience, but it was still just a grocery store. We were ravenous by the time we got there and we had a plan. We took our time and investigated the aisles we were curious and excited about. Breakfast fixings, fresh fruit, crackers and cheese and then for dinner we bought acorn squash, pulled pork and a side of pasta. Success! We also decided to get a taxi back to the hotel. However, we couldn’t reach anyone by phone who would actually pick us up. Neither of us has Uber or has ubered before, so we just started walking. Not tentative walking either, we strode with swagger. Diagonally through box store parking lots, behind buildings, over guard rails and up grassy slopes. As is typical in a suburban, commercial, box store jungle we didn’t see any other pedestrians with whom we could claim solidarity on this grand jaunt. Coincidentally, we stumbled upon a bakery tucked away in an industrial stripmall where we bought a few cookies for dessert. Our round trip was just over 8km which is not really that far to walk. If we had known it was going to take 2 hours we might have just ordered pizza!
Box store backside
Dinner was delicious, especially the squash which we cooked in the microwave. We are now seriously relaxing, with our feet up in bed, eating cookies and oranges and laughing about it all.
Sunny in the morning with high clouds building. SE light wind. 16 C
Lakeport Inn
We’ve been experimenting with multiple breakfasts so far on our trip. In our room we ate the shredded wheat that we brought with us and then we prepared our oatmeal and dried fruit for eating later. We actually ate our oatmeal on two different stops along the way this morning for a total of 3 breakfasts, but who is counting.
It wasn’t far to ride from the Inn back into downtown Lakeport. We looked around for a bit before setting out along the Erie Canal.
There was some beautiful architecture in Lakeport and the town’s history seemed most evident around the canal.
We had help from some locals to realize this selfie as the Packet Boat Family.
It was great to finally get riding in one direction without having to be concerned about traffic or navigating through city streets. The bike path follows alongside the canal almost entirely to Albanyand it is both relatively flat and straight. We were able to pedal side by side, talking away, while the miles ticked by. We are still using kilometers because there are more of them and it makes us sound like we are going faster.
We stopped for a few breaks along the way to snack and sightsee including at a bumble bee infested picnic table. We left them the table and took our food to the canal side where we dangled our feet over the edge. One minor detour where the trail was marked closed for construction resulted in us crossing to the other side. When we saw that no work was actually being done, we turned back and rode through the heavy machinery anyway. It takes more than that before we change course.
Pretty soon we arrived at the bridge at Albion. Our motel was a mile back through town on hwy 31 which gave us a look at the local amenities. Grocery stores and a bakery! That is what keeps us motivated. Now we have to decide what’s for dinner.
After a light breakfast and packing our bags yet again, we took the elevator down to the lobby to retrieve our bikes from the hotel office. Finally we were going to be riding! We made our way down Clifton Hill through the thin crowds and crossed the Rainbow Bridge along with the other vehicular traffic. The border guard seemed more interested in why we were riding our bikes to New York instead of what dried fruit we might or might not have concealed in our paniers. I bit my tongue when they asked how many stops we planned on making. I wasn’t sure if they meant just today or over the next 3 weeks of riding. Either way, too many to count comes to mind. Being slightly flummoxed by gaining entry so effortlessly, I forgot to ask for a stamp in my new passport.
Once we were safely in America we stopped to recalibrate. Originally we had talked about touring and toodling through the park there and viewing the Falls from the American side, but after conferring with one another expiedience won out and we rode east. Something else we had to take care of was getting connected to the internet again with new SIM cards. I thought I knew where a phone store was but actually needed to get directions from a few folks before we found the store. It doesn’t seem that long ago that the internet was just a fun thing to use occasionally and now you feel almost naked without it. Eventually we got connected again.
For most of our ride to Lockport today we followed the signs for New York State’s Bike Route 5. We had a strong tailwind when we were riding east, but the few times we turned north the wind was really in our face. Just as we arrived in Lockport we crossed over the Erie Canal which we will be following all the way to Albany. It looks like a lot of that route will be a dedicated bike path which will be great, although riding on the roads today felt perfectly safe for the most part. More than once we were surprised by the patience of drivers here (looking at you Ontario!).
It was still fairly early in the day when we arrived at the Inn in Lockport so after we unpacked we set out on foot to find the grocery store. Because we didn’t want to walk any further to see if Top’s was in fact just down the way, we went to Walmart so it was a cultural outing too. I didn’t see a greeter when we entered but I did see an armed guard with a tactical shotgun which seemed perfectly normal. We had a short list of things we wanted to get, for both dinner and tomorrow’s breakfast. Really, we wanted to oogle at the fun and strange foods they might have that we aren’t used to seeing. Red Hot Onion flavoured Rings was one item that stood out and another was Mint Chip flavoured Milk. Neither product ended up in our basket – actually in our arms because we couldn’t find any baskets – but will endure in our minds for quite awhile.
Back in our room we ate our supper early because we were famished. Crackers and cheese for an appetizer and a chic pea salad with cucumber, mango and orange pepper for our main. Desert was salty dry roasted peanuts and some chocolate. Delicious! And its only 4pm. Trying to stay awake at least until dark.
Rain in the morning, clearing in the late afternoon. 16 C
Clifton Hill
So my Mom and I are embarking on another bicycle trip. This is our first big ride in almost 3 years which is mostly due to COVID 19. Originally we had planned this trip for May 2020. We plan on riding to Albany along the Erie Canal and then onto New York City via the Empire State Trail.
My Dad drove us, our bags and our bikes from Ajax to Niagara Falls after lunch and we checked into our hotel just after 3pm. After getting settled in our room my Mom and I set out on foot to see the sights and scout the Rainbow Bridge where we will be crossing the border in the morning. It didn’t take us long to get into full on tourist mode.
The SkyWheel
We had a nice walk around while the sun came out and it was enlivening to be surrounded by so many other people visiting the sights. No visit to Niagara is complete without a look over the edge…
Last minute preparations include eating the food we are prohibited from taking across the border.
After another fairly serious day of riding we ended up at our desired location – Gino’s Pizza in Harrowsmith.
After sunrise in Belleville I went back to bed!
We travelled on the road from Belleville to Napanee and then to Strathcona to the beginning / end of the Cataraqui Rail Trail. Our final 25 kilometres were spent riding along through sun dappled forests and alongside sunny farmer’s fields. There were a few rough patches of loose gravel but that only makes us work up an even more intense appetite.
Many breaks was the strategy we employed.
In Harrowsmith we were picked up by my Dad and we were greeted by the dogs too once we arrived back at the cottage. Swimming ensued! We are very fortunate to have such a generous and available support crew.
It was really a great day of riding today. We rode from town to town in manageable spurts. The wind at our backs helped us up the gently rolling hills and we were able to coast down them pretty quickly.
From Cobourg we went through Grafton, Colborne, Brighton, Trenton and then Belleville. We rode exclusively along Hwy 2 even when the waterfront trail signs directed us otherwise. This strategy minimized our mileage and maximized our stamina. Before we knew it we had arrived and it didn’t feel like we pedaled another 80 kilometres.
Our food rations were basically depleted when we arrived at the hotel so we rode a short distance to the grocery store to stock up. If soups have defined our cold weather trips, frozen desserts might define this one…
With only a week to spare and the end of August approaching, my Mom and I decided to take a few days to ride our bikes from Ajax to the cottage in Kingston. My Dad and the dogs (and Duncan) are there already so we’d have a welcome wagon waiting and eventually a ride home.
So the road trip begins! We are getting more crafty on our trips like today when we hopped on the GO train in Whitby and rode it one stop to Oshawa which saved us riding between 5 and 10km. This so called savings we planned on spending later in the day – which we did when we rode the final 10km from Port Hope to Cobourg.
The weather was quite warm and the humidity was thick. There was a lovely tailwind that helped to push us along and when we were near Lake Ontario we could feel the cool water on the breeze.
We stopped for many snacks along the way including two separate lunches.
At this picnic stop at Bond Head we did cucumber facials to help cool down.
The waterfront trail has some very beautiful parts to it as it stretches along the North shore of the lake. We have ridden this route before so it is not as mind blowing as the first experience. That being said it was so hot today that I kept my camera packed while we rode and I didn’t take any pictures of the beautiful scenery we saw.
The wind was howling from the west when we woke up and we knew this would affect our riding today. We were still uncertain where we would end up but we knew that we needed to get to Hamilton. We followed a bike route through the city and into to downtown and then to McMaster University. From there we decided to ride up through the Dundas Valley on the Hamilton to Brantford Rail. On a previous trip we had pedaled this section only going down the escarpment.
Being a holiday there were a lot of other people out on the trail which was nice for a change. Once we reached the top of the valley we were exposed to the west wind again. This prompted another change in plans.
We decided at this point to turn around and ride back down the trail into Hamilton and then carry on toward the Aldershot GO Train station where we started our cycling six days prior. This way we’d be riding with the wind, a nice way to conclude our Golden Horseshoe tour. One last hiccup had us hauling our bikes up 165 steps to reach the bridge on York Boulevard that would take us over the water toward Burlington.
When we arrived at the train station we purchased our tickets and then the train arrived. We got on board, secured our bikes and set out our picnic lunch. 2 hours later we arrived in Ajax and rode the remaining 6km home with the wind at our backs.
Day 6: St Catharines to Stoney Creek (Greenbelt Trail) 60km
Sunday, May 19
Mostly sunny, hot and cold 27 / 15C SE wind
Today we navigated our way out of St Catharines along the Greenbelt Trail. This trail runs parallel to the Waterfront Trail but instead of following the waterfront it runs along the top of the Niagara Escarpment as hwy 81.
Riding on the road was a nice change for us and because it was Sunday the vehicle traffic seemed light. We stopped along the way in Jordan and Beamsville for snacks and to fill our water bottles.
The weather was strange too. An incoming weather system was pushing warm, humid air into the region but because we were so close to Lake Ontario there was a cold damp wind blowing. As we climbed up the Escarpment out of Jordan we hit the warm air mass and instantly started sweating. It was hot in the sun and the air was thick and sticky with humidity. A little further along as we descended a bit we pedaled into a mass of cool, damp air. Instantly it got cold. It was a drastic change in temperature and for us it meant coats on – coats off.
Nearing Stoney Creek we had a spectacular view of Hamilton and the Golden Horseshoe in general. Our route had us riding past Devils Punch Bowl Conservation Area before we turned onto Centennial Parkway and zoomed all the way down “the mountain” to our hotel at the bottom. Familiar territory but we went to a different grocery store for supper. We also bought extra food because of the Victoria Day holiday tomorrow.
Day 5: Fort Erie – Niagara Falls – St Catharines 59km
Saturday, May 18
Partly sunny. Warm / cool mix. 14C NE wind
There was bright blue sky this morning when we pulled back the curtains in our room. My Mom suggested going for a walk to wake up so we took a quick tour of the surrounding neighbourhood before we ate breakfast. We saw a sign for a garage sale but we didn’t actually come across it.
Yesterday at the Bulk Barn we picked up yummy additives for our instant oatmeal (dates, coconut and ground flax) and so today we were both eagerly anticipating our first meal. We used the microwave in the room to hand craft our oatmeal and I made a cup of green tea for the road. Today was our earliest start so far, we pulled out of the motel parking lot at 9:30am.
It was a short ride to Mather’s Circle where we picked up the trail after leaving it yesterday. We passed under the Peace Bridge and followed the Niagara River north.
There were several other groups of cyclists out too and we waved and nodded as we rode along. The Niagara Parkway Trail is paved and parallels the road which fronts houses along the way. Big houses, small ones and in between too. New ones, older ones, modern and modest as well. It occurred to me that for all the mega mansions I’ve seen, I’ve never seen anyone sitting around in their expensive patio furniture enjoying their exclusive view – ever.
The city of Niagara Falls appeared in the distance as a staccato of glassy hotel spires. The mist from the falls could be seen from quite a distance too. As we got closer the river got quicker and more energetic and then we could hear the sound of the falling water roar.
We stopped for lunch by a row of magnolia trees in full bloom and as expected the place was busy with other tourists.
After we ate we made our way into the throngs of people and parked ourselves in the mist with a spectacular view of the falls. We were planning on staying up road and decided we would go and check into our room before venturing out again to see more sights.
At the motel we were quoted an expensive rate so we changed our minds, deciding instead to ride on. Thinking ahead as we do sometimes we ended up back in St Catharines in familiar territory. Upon arriving we were again quoted an unreasonable price for a room, but due to circumstances we couldn’t mitigate we checked in to stay. This is the same place we stayed a few nights ago and we walked to the same bakery and grocery store where we bought an entirely different supper. I guess we’re not going to Fallsview after all.
Sunny and warm 20C / Cloudy and cool 10C with a gentle SW wind
Today we slept in and admired the nice curtains in our motel room. We decided to have somewhat of a rest day today, aiming for nearby Fort Erie. There were a few shops in Port Colborne we wanted to see as well as the historic downtown. When we left the motel at 11am we took a short ride east of town, then south to the rail trail and eventually circled back into town by Sugarloaf Harbour. We locked up the bikes and then started exploring downtown on foot.
As we made our way north toward the bakeries and bookshop we’d seen yesterday we realized how far away they actually were. Too far to walk considering we still had to ride to Fort Erie and we hadn’t even had lunch yet. So we decided that we didn’t really need to see the bakeries and bookshop and made our way back to where our bikes were parked. Then we rode over the canal on the bridge and stopped at the start of the Friendship Trail where we had a trailside picnic lunch. It was cold when the sun disappeared behind the clouds with a cool, damp Lake breeze coming off Lake Erie. When the sun peeked out it was almost hot and we’d have to unzip jackets and take off our gloves.
Once we started riding toward Fort Erie along the Friendship Trail it was a lovely ride. The trail was paved and we’ll signed with road crossings and maps. With the wind pushing us along we made our way eastward. The trail eventually emerged from fields and farmland to a view of the sandy beaches of the lake. We passed by cottages and lake front homes before the Buffalo skyline came into view.
Then we saw the old fort of Fort Erie and peace bridge. At Mather’s Arch we stopped to get our bearings.
From there it was just a short distance to our accommodations for the night. All of the usual amenities are nearby too. Home sweet home..
Day 3: St. Catharines to Port Colborne (The Welland Canal) 50km
After breakfast and a quick trip to the Niagara Outlet Mall we retraced our route to the Welland Canal Parkway Trail at the QEW overpass.
During our lunch break at Lock#3 we saw the memorial to commemorate the workers who were killed constructing the canal.
We got to watch a lake freighter traversing the lock and watched in amazement how such a huge vessel can be piloted so precisely.
It was a lovely ride south along the canal even though the wind suddenly switched from a tailwind to a headwind in a matter of minutes. Clouds had been building too and finally it started to rain. We only suffered about a hundred drops and then it stopped. It was warm enough that we dried off in no time.
We stopped for another snack near Welland and then made our final push to Port Colborne. Remnants of the regions industrial past were evident all along our route but especially prominent was the old Robin Hood flour silos.
Riding through Port Colborne on our way to the motel we saw several points of interest that we will explore in the morning. We could see the luminous sign of the grocery store from the motel and after checking in we made a b-line to the store and ordered our supper.
Our evening was spent discussing and planning the next leg of our trip. Details to come…
Sunny and warm with an afternoon thunderstorm. Light West wind.
Neither of us trusted the forecast we saw this morning when we got out of bed. Sunny skies and double digit temperatures. I actually put on Sun screen, but had my feather vest in my hands as we checked out because it couldn’t possibly be warmer than 10C. It was and I reluctantly tucked my vest into my pannier before riding away from the hotel.
Once we had picked up the waterfront trail again it only took a few minutes of pedalling for both of us to request a stop to take off more clothes. This time it was my sweater that got stuffed in alongside my feather vest. Every now and then there was a gush of cool air off of Lake Ontario, but generally it was a lovely, warm Spring morning.
Riding with the wind at our backs we sailed through Grimsby and past Lincoln. Pretty soon 2 hours had gone by and I realized that I hadn’t taken a picture of anything. I started to pay attention and to wonder what I might document for today’s ride. I had noticed several Magnolia trees spectacularly in full bloom, but didn’t want to break our rhythm to stop for pictures. It was when we rode alongside an apple orchard bursting with puffy, pink blooms that I tried to snap a few pictures while rolling past at 25km/h. By the time I opened up my phone – ignored several push notifications, closed the map App and initiated the camera – we had pretty much passed the cotton candy colured orchard and it’s diverging linear rows of trees. I was a little disappointed but vowed to pay more attention to the passing beauty even if it meant not having pictures to prove it.
Soon after the orchard we stopped for a roadside picnic. Our pantry was not overflowing after our triple supper yesterday but we did have a small piece of cheese, a small piece of cucumber, half an apple and 6 grapes each to tide us over. Our rest stop would have been shady had the leaves on the tree been out, but since they weren’t, we were still in partial sun. After our quick snack we continued on, riding mostly along the North service road alongside the QEW.
2 cyclists approached from behind and the second one pulled up alongside for a rolling Q&A. His name is Jerry, a local out for a ride. He queried about us, our departure point and destination. He ended up inadvertently escorting us into Port Dalhousie all the while directing us along the best possible route. He also dropped back to visit with my Mom and he didn’t hesitate to wave cars past as they qued up behind him. By the time he rode off without us we were in St. Catherines.
It didn’t take us long to find somewhere to stay and it didn’t take us long for us to find some more food to eat. A little local bakery / deli had our mouths watering and provided the inspiration for our dinner this day. The regular grocery store is where we stocked up on the essential items like fruit and vegetables. It poured rain while were shopping and the rain stopped while we walked back to our room. It rained again while we were eating with some rumbling thunder and a flash or two of lightening.
Once again we have eaten most of the food before I could photograph it. Will try again tomorrow.
The weather wasn’t nearly as inviting as it should be at this time of year in Southern Ontario but cloudy and cool are actually perfect conditions to cycle in. You get to wear most of your clothes instead of sunscreen and no sweat means no laundry generally speaking.
My Mom and I left my parents place in Ajax just before 10am and rode our bikes 5km to the Ajax GO Train station. We had enough time to purchase our tickets and haul our bikes down the stairs, under the tracks to the elevator and up to the westbound platform. Once we boarded the train we had 2 hours to sit back and look out the window. At Union station in Toronto most of the other passengers got off the train and a whole new bunch got on. We passed through Oakville and Burlington and then Aldershot – the end of the line.
Once we got back on the bikes it was a short ride down to the waterfront where we stopped for a picnic lunch. Carrying on along the Waterfront Trail we crossed over the Burlington canal just in time to watch the lift bridge opening for a passing ship. Though the lake looked calm, every now and then a big swell would crash against the breakwall sending a big plume of spray skyward.
This time of year is when the lake bugs hatch in full force and we had our bug nets and bandannas ready for the occasion. The trail along Hamilton Beach is a wide, paved pathway and the riding was so nice that we overshot our turnoff to Stoney Creek by a few kilometres. Once we turned back we were off the trail and riding under the QEW into the Power Centre where our accommodations for the night are located.
After settling in to our room and stowing our bikes we set off on foot to see the sights. Actually, we went straight to the grocery store to satiate our foodly desires! Back in our room we had a three course supper. Veggies and dip, soup and then crackers and cheese. After supper the sun came out and we’ve been staring out the window watching all the people come and go and wondering what kind of food they may have purchased..
After consulting numerous sources for a drier weather forecast they all seemed to reach the same conclusion. Today was to be WET.
Leaving the motel in Saint-Faustin the skies were certainly grey, but it was only sprinkling rain as we rode up the highway to rejoin the trail. There was a strong SE wind, precisely the direction we were heading. After reaching the trail we were sheltered from the wind but because we were at the summit of the trail – nearly 400 metres above sea level – there was still some wet snow covering our path. Some of f it was easy to ride over and some of it wasn’t. There was one stretch where we walked the bikes for nearly a kilometre. This actually helped to warm us up a bit.
It rained all day. Even though we’ve had about two weeks to practise dressing for cold and wet, our layers and rain gear were no match for the persistent precipitation that pelted our persons. It was too wet to take pictures with my phone and I also had plastic bags over my gloves to keep my hands warm. If a picture paints a thousand words, then hopefully some words can help to paint a picture.
It rained so much today that I hardly had to sip from my water bottle. There was constantly water on my face, dripping into my mouth. My mitts ended up with water in the bottom of them. My shoes were soaked. My rain pants slowly started leaking. Cool rain running down my legs. My wool touque kept the rain at bay but eventually my neck warmer let a few drops seep through back behind my ears.
By the time we arrived at the car rental place in Saint-Jérôme we absolutely dripping wet – all over their floors and counter top. After loading the bikes into the back of the SUV we got changed into dry clothes and hit the road. It was a treat being dry and warm again. We stopped for food at the last grocery store before the Ontario border for roast pork and maple – cheddar cheese. We are staying in Kingston tonight, near where we started our trip 16 days ago.
My Mom summed up our day and our trip with a limerick:
Cloudy and cold with a bit of snow and rain. 2C SE wind
After yesterday’s beautiful sunshine today’s silver skies were a reminder that it actually is November. At least the day started out dry.
We noticed brand new trail signs along our route today as we retraced our route down the Petit Train du Nord. Past Lac Mercer, Mont Tremblant and Saint-Jovite.
The snow started again after lunch as we pedaled toward the summit of the trail. We persevered uphill and stopped for a photo-op overlooking the quarry.
Our final push has us sailing along Hwy 117 for just over a kilometre to our motel in Saint-Faustin. We have 3 small suppers planned for the rest of the day; soup, burgers and fries and beans with toast. Looks like tomorrow might be our final day of riding and it is forecast to be a wet one! Stay tuned..
The weather was great for riding today. It seemed like we hadn’t seen sunshine in a week!
Before we left Mont Laurier I realized that we were missing something. Our mascot and travelling buddy Lambie was nowhere to be found! We looked under the beds, unpacked all our bags and still couldn’t find her. Ironically she was last seen during our picnic lunch on the side of the trail near Guenette. It was there where I took some pictures of her tucked into the back pocket of my pannier which I posted as part of our day’s adventure riding toward Mont Laurier on Friday. After her photo shoot, once we started riding again, we rode through several really bumpy sections of the trail. This is where we figured she might be.
Both of us scoured the trail with our eyes as we rode barely paying any attention to the scenery which is pretty nice on this stretch of trail. Hoping we’d find her either on the trail or along side it we remembered the time that we found Gloria’s green jacket 13 miles from Washington DC. We considered that someone may have found her and taken her home. I even entertained the notion that perhaps we had inadvertently reunited her with whomever lost her in British Columbia in the first place… so as we were riding, scanning the trail ahead of us, I spotted something pink in a tree to the right of the trail. It was Lambie! We were so relieved. We left a thank you note – with a link to the blog – hanging on the branch where they left her.
The remainder of our ride today was much more relaxing and we were able to soak in all of the sunny scenery.
For lunch we made a picnic at a table in the sun.
In the afternoon we saw more people on the trail than we have in the the last week. Once we arrived in Riviere Rouge at the Bar-Resto-Pub Motel we unloaded our bags and pedalled to the IGA. The sun was setting behind the hills in the west as we made our way home.
Another great supper in our room and we have been planning the final days of our ride back to Montreal.
Today was our rest day after completing our trek up Le Petit Train du Nord. There was also rain, wind and snow forecast so it was an easy decision to stay put. Although we did quite a bit of lazing around in bed, we also went out and explored the town a few times. Before breakfast we walked over to La Muffinerie and bought a fresh baguette and a peanut butter cookie, both of which were for later.
After breakfast in our room we went out again. This time we found the new trail head for our route that we missed yesterday because of a detour.
We also wandered around in the local mall and found a great deal on new cycling mitts. After a little bit of grocery shopping it was time for lunch so back to our room we went. An afternoon hockey game on TV was a great way to pass some time too. Later in the afternoon we walked to the fromagerie and then to a different grocery store for a few more bits. Thankfully all of the stores are quite close so we haven’t actually been that active on our rest day.
We have tonight’s supper all planned out as well as tomorrow’s ride. Here is a picture of us heating our soup in the staff kitchen..
We slept soundly and we slept in! Our room was nice and warm and the beds were very comfortable. Being the only guests we also had the breakfast room to ourselves to enjoy our porridge. We toasted our leftover bread and ate it with peanut butter and jam. After checking out we spent quite awhile on the front porch getting our layers of clothing – plastic bags to cover our gloves – just right.
It must have rained overnight because the roads were wet. We could see tiny ripples in the puddles so we were prepared for more rain. Our route today started off with a 20km uphill climb, albeit a gradual one. Pedalling uphill keeps us warm in this weather and we had to stop twice to undo zippers and remove layers. After reaching Lac-Saguay it was all downhill!
The final 33 kilometres were a treat and we sailed along at top speed. Near Guenette we stopped for a snack in the caboose shaped rest stop, one of many along Le Petit Train du Nord.
What we anticipated being a gruelling ride in the rain turned out to be fast paced, dry and fairly effortless.
Coming into Mont Laurier there was a detour with only 2 kilometres to go. Unfortunately we ended up having to ride on the main road / highway to get to our hotel. Our hotel, fortunately, is surrounded by grocery stores, bakeries and a cheese shop!
Cell block 7 is the nickname we gave our room in Labelle. Although it was warm and fairly clean we were excited to get going in the morning. We ate our leftover yogurt and I made tea from the hot water tap, then after packing, we fastened the padlock and checked out.
There was a chance of rain in the forecast, but thankfully it didn’t materialize and we enjoyed a dry day of pedalling. The section of the Petit Train du Nord we rode along today was paved which also was a bonus.
After our picnic lunch in Riviere Rouge we spotted some deer enjoying their lunch.
The final leg of our journey today had us arriving in Nominingue by 1 o’clock and we had two hours to kill before we were able to check in to the L’Auberge de la Vieille Gare. We took a walk around the small town and discovered a small grocery store and half a dozen hair salons. I was expecting to see everyone in town sporting a fancy hairdo, but a lot of people were wearing hats.
Upon checking in we were treated like royalty. I even had my luggage carried upstairs to our room. We are the only guests staying here tonight and rumour has it that we are the last people cycling on Le Petit Train.
eimajeyn 